03/03/2007
| T34/76 model 1941 |
I am not thoroughly versed in the knowledge of armor. I know a bit about it and can identify
what a specific model is, but I do not know the ins and outs of these beasts. My main focus is
just model building.
This kit is from Dragon models. I had originally purchased it for my son as a gift for Christmas
a couple years ago. As with most youths these days, he is into instant gratification and the
thought of "building" a kit is akin to picking up spiders. Although, some kids might like spiders.
He would much rather have the prebuilt 1/32nd scale models. So this kit sat on my shelf until
now. I thought it would be a good test bed for reintroducing myself to AFV modeling.
Usually with models I start from the bottom and work up. This time I thought I would start on the
turret and if that went well, I would then work on the chassis and move up. The kit is fairly
decent, but not all the parts join perfectly. Dragon does a good job of molding the weld joints.
Problem is if the joint does not fit perfectly, the weld detail is gone when getting the two parts
to fit because you have to fill the joints. This gave me the opportunity to try out building my
own weld joints.
what a specific model is, but I do not know the ins and outs of these beasts. My main focus is
just model building.
This kit is from Dragon models. I had originally purchased it for my son as a gift for Christmas
a couple years ago. As with most youths these days, he is into instant gratification and the
thought of "building" a kit is akin to picking up spiders. Although, some kids might like spiders.
He would much rather have the prebuilt 1/32nd scale models. So this kit sat on my shelf until
now. I thought it would be a good test bed for reintroducing myself to AFV modeling.
Usually with models I start from the bottom and work up. This time I thought I would start on the
turret and if that went well, I would then work on the chassis and move up. The kit is fairly
decent, but not all the parts join perfectly. Dragon does a good job of molding the weld joints.
Problem is if the joint does not fit perfectly, the weld detail is gone when getting the two parts
to fit because you have to fill the joints. This gave me the opportunity to try out building my
own weld joints.
Here you can see a few of the welds. When fitting the gun recoil mechanism in, there is a
rather unsightly gap between the weld and the recoil part. I filled this gap all the way around
with a piece of 0.010" x ).020" styrene strip. I softened the plastic and tried to resimulate the
rough weld by cutting it with a #11 blade. For the gun rotator shield fillet weld, I used Tamiya
epoxy putty. I shaped and contoured it. I tried to make the welds look sloppy and rough.
rather unsightly gap between the weld and the recoil part. I filled this gap all the way around
with a piece of 0.010" x ).020" styrene strip. I softened the plastic and tried to resimulate the
rough weld by cutting it with a #11 blade. For the gun rotator shield fillet weld, I used Tamiya
epoxy putty. I shaped and contoured it. I tried to make the welds look sloppy and rough.
The side weld were made with epoxy putty as well. Here I first trenched the plastic and back
filled it with putty. I used a stiff stippling type paint brush to texture and pull the putty into a
mound.
filled it with putty. I used a stiff stippling type paint brush to texture and pull the putty into a
mound.
Just another view showing the other side of the turret. Same type of welds.
When I looked at photographs of the real tank, I noticed the welds on the top of the turret
were flatter, almost level with the plate steel. It is as if a torch was used to liquefy the steel
plates and then let the puddle of steel cool. It has a rough looking texture. I used the trench
and fill with epoxy putty method again here and textured with the same stiff brush.
I like the Tamiya epoxy putty. I used the slow setting compound and it really gives you a long
time to work it. Not just minutes, but at least an hour or so to play around with the texturing. I
know the welds I made do not look exactly like the real thing, but I am still learning here. I will
soften them a bit with liquid cement and possibly grit blasting might help.
My next task it to see if I can simulate rough plate steel on the turret sides. To do this I am
going to follow the suggestion from the book FAQ by Mig Jimenez. The process to do this is to
use a round ball steel cutter in Dremel type tool and gouge the surface of the turret sides. I
made some irregular patterns and some small dots. Then I used Tamiya putty thinned with
MEK and painted the turret sides. After all this dried, I sanded it smooth. I noticed I had way to
many pock marks so I added another layer of Tamiya putty thinned with MEK. I like the effect
and I think I was able to properly simulate rough plate steel. The photos below show the
results after painting.
were flatter, almost level with the plate steel. It is as if a torch was used to liquefy the steel
plates and then let the puddle of steel cool. It has a rough looking texture. I used the trench
and fill with epoxy putty method again here and textured with the same stiff brush.
I like the Tamiya epoxy putty. I used the slow setting compound and it really gives you a long
time to work it. Not just minutes, but at least an hour or so to play around with the texturing. I
know the welds I made do not look exactly like the real thing, but I am still learning here. I will
soften them a bit with liquid cement and possibly grit blasting might help.
My next task it to see if I can simulate rough plate steel on the turret sides. To do this I am
going to follow the suggestion from the book FAQ by Mig Jimenez. The process to do this is to
use a round ball steel cutter in Dremel type tool and gouge the surface of the turret sides. I
made some irregular patterns and some small dots. Then I used Tamiya putty thinned with
MEK and painted the turret sides. After all this dried, I sanded it smooth. I noticed I had way to
many pock marks so I added another layer of Tamiya putty thinned with MEK. I like the effect
and I think I was able to properly simulate rough plate steel. The photos below show the
results after painting.
After painting, I think the weld beads look better as well. The paint I used Testors Russian
Armor Green Acrylic. I thinned it about 50% and shot it at 10psi. I applied three thin coats.
Armor Green Acrylic. I thinned it about 50% and shot it at 10psi. I applied three thin coats.
I took several photos so the light would reflect on different areas to show the turret sides. By
putting the putty coat over the turret sides, it softens the gouges and makes them more
shallow. This side was heavily gouged. By adding the second coat of putty, I was able to fill
most of them.
putting the putty coat over the turret sides, it softens the gouges and makes them more
shallow. This side was heavily gouged. By adding the second coat of putty, I was able to fill
most of them.
Prior to painting, I grit blasted the turret. Grit blasting gives the plastic a micro fine "tooth" and
the paint really goes on well. Here you can also see I have the gun barrel installed. It is a
turned aluminum barrel. I think these turned barrels are probably one the best advancement
in armor modeling. I used the barrel offered by CMK. Grit blasting the barrel also makes the
paint stick to it VERY nicely.
the paint really goes on well. Here you can also see I have the gun barrel installed. It is a
turned aluminum barrel. I think these turned barrels are probably one the best advancement
in armor modeling. I used the barrel offered by CMK. Grit blasting the barrel also makes the
paint stick to it VERY nicely.
Prior to painting, I was not very confident in my application of the weld beads. After seeing this
photo though, I am very happy with the results. Also I like how I got the two different effects of
the steel plate. One is the gouging of the plate and the other is the smearing effect of the
plate. I just call it the smearing effect for lack of a better term, but it looks as if when the plate
was going through the roller, it slid instead of rolled and some of the steel lapped slightly. I do
not know a whole lot about the manufacturing of steel, so I use pictures and try to simulate
what I see.
photo though, I am very happy with the results. Also I like how I got the two different effects of
the steel plate. One is the gouging of the plate and the other is the smearing effect of the
plate. I just call it the smearing effect for lack of a better term, but it looks as if when the plate
was going through the roller, it slid instead of rolled and some of the steel lapped slightly. I do
not know a whole lot about the manufacturing of steel, so I use pictures and try to simulate
what I see.
Now I just need to let the paint dry for a day or so and then shoo tit with a thin coat of future
and apply the decals. Then I will move to building the hull.
and apply the decals. Then I will move to building the hull.