My purpose for doing frame detail work is to give the illusion of busy piping and such to fill a much needed
void. Especially on locomotives that do not have skirts to hide the frame. All this stuff is very visible. So
Sometimes I go all out and sometimes I do just enough to fill it in. This model I did what I thought was enough to
fill it in. I can be a lot of fun and very rewarding when finished.
void. Especially on locomotives that do not have skirts to hide the frame. All this stuff is very visible. So
Sometimes I go all out and sometimes I do just enough to fill it in. This model I did what I thought was enough to
fill it in. I can be a lot of fun and very rewarding when finished.
Time to turn my attention to the details below the deck and sill. O started with the air reservoirs. As you can
see above, it is a standard Cannon & Co. air reservoir. Nothing special. So why am I showing just this part.
When I glue them together the weld bead at each end gets destroyed because I sand the length of the cylinder
to remove any hint of a seam. The weld bead gets taken off. I replace it with stretched sprue and that is what
you see on each end. The photo makes the beads look huge, but they are not. They are thinner than hair.
see above, it is a standard Cannon & Co. air reservoir. Nothing special. So why am I showing just this part.
When I glue them together the weld bead at each end gets destroyed because I sand the length of the cylinder
to remove any hint of a seam. The weld bead gets taken off. I replace it with stretched sprue and that is what
you see on each end. The photo makes the beads look huge, but they are not. They are thinner than hair.
After the reservoirs are glued in place, I installed the plumbing. It is a mixture of Details West parts and brass
wire.
wire.
Here you can see all the plumbing. The bell is a Kato bell. They make the best looking bells so I bought a
whole bunch of them. I cut the mounting disk off and built a bell bracket to hide under the walk way.
whole bunch of them. I cut the mounting disk off and built a bell bracket to hide under the walk way.
The valve you see ahead of the air reservoir is from Precision Scale. I drilled it out and slipped the brass wire
through it. Then put a small spot of ACC on it.
That is it for the air reservoirs and now I can move onto the frame.
through it. Then put a small spot of ACC on it.
That is it for the air reservoirs and now I can move onto the frame.
Here is the front end of the frame. I have added some various Details West parts from the SD45T-2 detail kit
and from their traction motor cable kit. If I could, I would try to convince Details West to offer a bulk pack of
these cables. Especially the rectangular bundle. I had to purchase nearly 10 packages just to get enough
cables.
and from their traction motor cable kit. If I could, I would try to convince Details West to offer a bulk pack of
these cables. Especially the rectangular bundle. I had to purchase nearly 10 packages just to get enough
cables.
This is the rear end of the frame. Again, Details West parts. I used detail photos I have of an SD45-2 to help
guide me where the traction motor cables should be. I can't imagine EMD not having a standard cable routing
for these locomotives.
guide me where the traction motor cables should be. I can't imagine EMD not having a standard cable routing
for these locomotives.
After putting the details on the frame, I started building the fuel tank. I destroyed the tank that came with the
model, but thankfully I had a few extra from an order for some SD50 fuel tanks. I have added all the Cannon &
Co. detail parts that would be appropriate for this model. I also built the blocks that sit behind the sight glass. I
measured one from the Cannon & Co. fuel tank fitting kit and cut it out of styrene strip. The fuel filler pipes are
from the SD45T-2 parts bag. They are pretty decent so why not use them. The white dot you see on the top
surface is a plugged hole. Basically to plug holes I dip a round styrene rod slightly larger than the hole diameter
into liquid cement and then plunge it into the hole. Then let it dry. This is my standard operating procedure for
filling holes.
A note on this procedure. After the rod drys, do not flush nip the piece. What happens is you slightly pull the
rod up and after the cut, you leave a very shallow impression. What I do is nip it slightly above the surface and
then either sand it down or use a knife and gradually cut it down. Sanding is best.
model, but thankfully I had a few extra from an order for some SD50 fuel tanks. I have added all the Cannon &
Co. detail parts that would be appropriate for this model. I also built the blocks that sit behind the sight glass. I
measured one from the Cannon & Co. fuel tank fitting kit and cut it out of styrene strip. The fuel filler pipes are
from the SD45T-2 parts bag. They are pretty decent so why not use them. The white dot you see on the top
surface is a plugged hole. Basically to plug holes I dip a round styrene rod slightly larger than the hole diameter
into liquid cement and then plunge it into the hole. Then let it dry. This is my standard operating procedure for
filling holes.
A note on this procedure. After the rod drys, do not flush nip the piece. What happens is you slightly pull the
rod up and after the cut, you leave a very shallow impression. What I do is nip it slightly above the surface and
then either sand it down or use a knife and gradually cut it down. Sanding is best.
Just the other side of the tank. You will notice I really do not tell you what details I added. That is because I use
prototype photos to figure out what is needed. Plus I am to lazy to write it all out :-). I think fromthe photos you
can tell what is on there.
prototype photos to figure out what is needed. Plus I am to lazy to write it all out :-). I think fromthe photos you
can tell what is on there.
I installed the fuel tank breather pipe before I knew Details West had this as a detail package. Basically took a
piece of brass and bent it to shape. The brackets are brass rod smashed very flat in a machinist vise. Then
wrapped around the brass rod and soldered in place. I then drilled a hole through it and installed a Details
Associates NBW.
With all my models, I secure the fuel tank to the frame with two screws. I like this method because it pulls the
fuel tank up nice and tight against the frame. No sagging and no wiggling around. Just a nice solid connection.
By the way, this method works out great for P2K tanks that have that tape to hold them in place.
piece of brass and bent it to shape. The brackets are brass rod smashed very flat in a machinist vise. Then
wrapped around the brass rod and soldered in place. I then drilled a hole through it and installed a Details
Associates NBW.
With all my models, I secure the fuel tank to the frame with two screws. I like this method because it pulls the
fuel tank up nice and tight against the frame. No sagging and no wiggling around. Just a nice solid connection.
By the way, this method works out great for P2K tanks that have that tape to hold them in place.