When I first saw the photos of the rear deck of this unit, I thought it was just cut plate steel and anti skid paint
added. I could not at all see any walkway safety tread plate. Just before I started cutting out the deck and email
came across the dlist from my good friend Chris Thompson. It just so happened this unit was in one of his
consists and he mentioned how crude the rear safety tread deck was constructed. So I had verified proof that
there was in fact safety tread in place on the rear tennis court deck. Unfortunately Chris was out there in the
evening and could not get good light for photos. He promised me that if he had the chance again with this unit I
would get detail photos.
added. I could not at all see any walkway safety tread plate. Just before I started cutting out the deck and email
came across the dlist from my good friend Chris Thompson. It just so happened this unit was in one of his
consists and he mentioned how crude the rear safety tread deck was constructed. So I had verified proof that
there was in fact safety tread in place on the rear tennis court deck. Unfortunately Chris was out there in the
evening and could not get good light for photos. He promised me that if he had the chance again with this unit I
would get detail photos.
Chris mentioned that there was about 1" to 1 1/2" gaps between the tread plate pieces and the gaps were
deep. Probably not precision built! So I cut the rear deck open accordingly. If you look at the fist page showing
the prototype, you can clearly make out the seams between the deck plates. I cut out the Athearn deck area so
there would be about a 1" or so gap at the wider rear deck plates. The deck plates further forward would have
a bit wider gap. The narrower plates and seam line are marked with an "A".
deep. Probably not precision built! So I cut the rear deck open accordingly. If you look at the fist page showing
the prototype, you can clearly make out the seams between the deck plates. I cut out the Athearn deck area so
there would be about a 1" or so gap at the wider rear deck plates. The deck plates further forward would have
a bit wider gap. The narrower plates and seam line are marked with an "A".
Next was to cut the base sheet for the new rear deck plate. Using 0.020 sheet, I placed it under the deck and
traced where I needed to cut. The result is what you see above. Using Cannon & Co. safety tread plate
material I took my styrene pattern and traced it on the brass sheet. Using the information Chris told me about
the rear deck plates, I cut out the patterns.
traced where I needed to cut. The result is what you see above. Using Cannon & Co. safety tread plate
material I took my styrene pattern and traced it on the brass sheet. Using the information Chris told me about
the rear deck plates, I cut out the patterns.
In this photo I wanted to show you how I sanded the bottom of the tread plate. To get good "tooth" for the glue
to adhere to, you want to get every bit of the surface scratched up. I then used a mixture of 50% MEK and 50%
Barge all purpose cement. I got both products at my local Ace Hardware. I swear by this mixture and it really
does work and holds great! I used an empty paint jar, filled it half with Barge cement and half with MEK. Spread
the mixture on the entire surface of the plate. Let it dry. Then position it on the part and reactivate it again with
just MEK. Let capillary action pull it under the part. You do not need to use a lot. On larger surfaces, you can
drill holes to allow you to get in deeper with the MEK.
to adhere to, you want to get every bit of the surface scratched up. I then used a mixture of 50% MEK and 50%
Barge all purpose cement. I got both products at my local Ace Hardware. I swear by this mixture and it really
does work and holds great! I used an empty paint jar, filled it half with Barge cement and half with MEK. Spread
the mixture on the entire surface of the plate. Let it dry. Then position it on the part and reactivate it again with
just MEK. Let capillary action pull it under the part. You do not need to use a lot. On larger surfaces, you can
drill holes to allow you to get in deeper with the MEK.
Now the rear deck is complete. It fits perfectly and has some nice wide gaps between the plates.
Now it is time to turn my attention to the long hood and prep it for the Cannon & Co, parts I want to use. Once
you start cutting parts out and especially the long hood end, you make the sides just a bit more flexible. So I
thought it was good to go ahead and ream out the fan centers. You put some downward forces on this area so I
wanted to retain the strength in the hood sides so I did this first. I used a General tool adjustable hand reamer
for this. It is a great tool. I do my best to keep it as centered as possible so as to not cut the hole larger.
you start cutting parts out and especially the long hood end, you make the sides just a bit more flexible. So I
thought it was good to go ahead and ream out the fan centers. You put some downward forces on this area so I
wanted to retain the strength in the hood sides so I did this first. I used a General tool adjustable hand reamer
for this. It is a great tool. I do my best to keep it as centered as possible so as to not cut the hole larger.
With the fan grills reamed out I then started on the radiator screens. I like the look of the Cannon & Co. grills
much better. They have more depth and detail to them. I chucked up a drill bit in my drill press and went at it as
you can see from the photo above.
I originally started using a hand held Dremel tool but as soon as I just barely touched the model, the bit shot off
in another direction. Lucky I caught it before it could run amuck down the side of my hood. I have the drill press
always set up so I figured it was best to use a steady feed. I was right!
much better. They have more depth and detail to them. I chucked up a drill bit in my drill press and went at it as
you can see from the photo above.
I originally started using a hand held Dremel tool but as soon as I just barely touched the model, the bit shot off
in another direction. Lucky I caught it before it could run amuck down the side of my hood. I have the drill press
always set up so I figured it was best to use a steady feed. I was right!
A
A
0.020" sheet styrene