At first I was not sure if the kitbash would work. I started thinking that I would have to cut to much of the bolster
down and it would severely weaken it. I bought the part anyway hoping it would all work. Then I started thinking
the SD40-2 long hood would not be long enough to cover the bolster casting. Well I was fortunate in both
accounts. All my fears were put to rest after I received the Athearn SD45T-2 and the Kato shell. Lucky for me I
received them both on the same day. All the modifications are made to the rear bolster and truck.
down and it would severely weaken it. I bought the part anyway hoping it would all work. Then I started thinking
the SD40-2 long hood would not be long enough to cover the bolster casting. Well I was fortunate in both
accounts. All my fears were put to rest after I received the Athearn SD45T-2 and the Kato shell. Lucky for me I
received them both on the same day. All the modifications are made to the rear bolster and truck.
As you can see from the photo above I had to slightly cut the back end of the bolster. I used a file and rounded
it. Though it is not seen, I still like to make may parts finished off nicely. The long hood end just fits over the end
of the bolster pad. Also, you can see the milled down frame.
it. Though it is not seen, I still like to make may parts finished off nicely. The long hood end just fits over the end
of the bolster pad. Also, you can see the milled down frame.
Here you can see how much I milled off the rear of the frame. I took enough off so a 0.020" sheet + the
thickness of the Cannon & Co. tread plate would fit properly and sit up against the frame. You can also see that
I cut the rear weight. I still wanted to retain some weight over the rear truck for good tracking since the power is
being taken off the rear truck. The frame still sits heavy over the rear truck.
thickness of the Cannon & Co. tread plate would fit properly and sit up against the frame. You can also see that
I cut the rear weight. I still wanted to retain some weight over the rear truck for good tracking since the power is
being taken off the rear truck. The frame still sits heavy over the rear truck.
This is last milling process. The Kato shell bows in a bit where it meets the deck so I wanted to add 0.020"
backing glue strips on the inside edge of the walkway. I needed to take 0.020" off the frame edge where the
deck fits up against it on the engineers side (right side).
backing glue strips on the inside edge of the walkway. I needed to take 0.020" off the frame edge where the
deck fits up against it on the engineers side (right side).
These are the glue strips on the inside of the deck. I used 0.020" x 0.125 strip. I'll add thinner strips where the
clean air room will mate up with the deck. The hood is 0.048" thick and I will be building the clean air room with
0.020" backing sheet and 0.020" laminate sheet. I'll notch the deck the difference and add a 0.010" glue strip.
There is just enough space between the deck and frame weight to allow the deck to slip down snuggly.
clean air room will mate up with the deck. The hood is 0.048" thick and I will be building the clean air room with
0.020" backing sheet and 0.020" laminate sheet. I'll notch the deck the difference and add a 0.010" glue strip.
There is just enough space between the deck and frame weight to allow the deck to slip down snuggly.
Now it is time to modify the rear truck. I knew from the beginning this unit would be front wheel drive only. Now
you are probably turned off by this now. Let me just add this though. This unit will most likely run in a consist
with at least two or three more units. That is more than enough traction to pull a good length train on ANY
layout and how many layouts can actually handle a prototype length mainline train. This unit will also give some
pulling power to the train. Also it is a bit prototypical in that a few traction motors may be out of service.
In the photo above you can see the gears have been removed. This is now a dummy truck. You can also see I
had to modify the pickup clip. I'll solder a wire to the clip that I cut off. There really is no need to clip off the
non-bolster pickup tab.
you are probably turned off by this now. Let me just add this though. This unit will most likely run in a consist
with at least two or three more units. That is more than enough traction to pull a good length train on ANY
layout and how many layouts can actually handle a prototype length mainline train. This unit will also give some
pulling power to the train. Also it is a bit prototypical in that a few traction motors may be out of service.
In the photo above you can see the gears have been removed. This is now a dummy truck. You can also see I
had to modify the pickup clip. I'll solder a wire to the clip that I cut off. There really is no need to clip off the
non-bolster pickup tab.
In this photo you can see the gear tower cut down even with the bottom of the bolster pickup tab. Now your
probably thinking "how is he going to retain this truck in the frame". The simple answer to this is I am not! This
truck will just ride in the bolster cavity. Athearn put a lot of weight in these frames and as I mentioned before
the frame sits pretty heavy on the trucks. It will track well.
probably thinking "how is he going to retain this truck in the frame". The simple answer to this is I am not! This
truck will just ride in the bolster cavity. Athearn put a lot of weight in these frames and as I mentioned before
the frame sits pretty heavy on the trucks. It will track well.
Here you can see the truck with the frame sitting on it. The key is to just get the gear tower below the frame so
when it swivels it will not rub the underside of the new deck area. You can also see that the bolster pickup pad
is trimmed even with the bolster casting.
when it swivels it will not rub the underside of the new deck area. You can also see that the bolster pickup pad
is trimmed even with the bolster casting.