The building stages of this project are coming to an end. Next in line is to build the cab interior. I do not know
what the exact interior to this unit looks like, but I wanted to give the impression thee is something in there that
represents an interior rather than just empty space with a gear tower. The SD45T-2 has the cab pretty far
forward, so the gear tower does interfere with the interior details, but I built around it. The gear tower cover will
also get painted gray to help it blend in a bit better.
what the exact interior to this unit looks like, but I wanted to give the impression thee is something in there that
represents an interior rather than just empty space with a gear tower. The SD45T-2 has the cab pretty far
forward, so the gear tower does interfere with the interior details, but I built around it. The gear tower cover will
also get painted gray to help it blend in a bit better.
The cab interior I used is by Keystone Locomotive Works. Part number HO-3305. About November, I bought
what stock Walthers had in them which amounted to five kits. I hope they have restocked since or will again
soon. The kit has the basic features needed. You can also go the PSC route except PSC does not offer the
rear wall with all the cabinet doors.
If you are wondering why there is green paint around the outside of the cab. Well, I originally thought the cab
interior was EMD Sea Foam Green. As usual, I was wrong and was corrected by Paul Ellis that it is I think Suede
Gray or something like that.
what stock Walthers had in them which amounted to five kits. I hope they have restocked since or will again
soon. The kit has the basic features needed. You can also go the PSC route except PSC does not offer the
rear wall with all the cabinet doors.
If you are wondering why there is green paint around the outside of the cab. Well, I originally thought the cab
interior was EMD Sea Foam Green. As usual, I was wrong and was corrected by Paul Ellis that it is I think Suede
Gray or something like that.
After painting the interior gray and the rear wall, I applied a coat of Future Floor Shine for a gloss coat. I found
a set of Microscale decals that had a bunch of safety and warning decals on it and applied them to all the
doors. After applying another coat of gloss on top of the decals, I then applied a coat of Tamiya clear flat.
The cab interior is now done and only needs the windows installed. I'll do that after I paint the unit.
a set of Microscale decals that had a bunch of safety and warning decals on it and applied them to all the
doors. After applying another coat of gloss on top of the decals, I then applied a coat of Tamiya clear flat.
The cab interior is now done and only needs the windows installed. I'll do that after I paint the unit.
As far as the build goes, the model is 98% done. I know of a couple tid bits of detail I have to add. I also have
to finish off the fans and add the hand rails. Those will be done when I finish rebuilding my grit blasting booth. I
need the blasting booth to etch the Delrin hand rails as well as etch the grab irons and front steps. Once that is
done, paint sticks to them perfectly and will not flake off. I should be done rebuilding the booth in about a
month. Then I am going to show you all the coolest trick for painting the contrasting safety colors on the grab
irons, step edges and hand rail ends.
to finish off the fans and add the hand rails. Those will be done when I finish rebuilding my grit blasting booth. I
need the blasting booth to etch the Delrin hand rails as well as etch the grab irons and front steps. Once that is
done, paint sticks to them perfectly and will not flake off. I should be done rebuilding the booth in about a
month. Then I am going to show you all the coolest trick for painting the contrasting safety colors on the grab
irons, step edges and hand rail ends.
The grit blasting booth is done being rebuilt and in operation and the model is now painted, has decals
applied and a clear coat. It is now time to start the weathering process. Below are a few photos of the model in it
final clear coat stage.
I mentioned above about a cool trick for a really nice finish on the contrasting safety colors applied to hand
rails. The next photo is the magic solution I use to achieve this.
applied and a clear coat. It is now time to start the weathering process. Below are a few photos of the model in it
final clear coat stage.
I mentioned above about a cool trick for a really nice finish on the contrasting safety colors applied to hand
rails. The next photo is the magic solution I use to achieve this.
This stuff is great and has some great uses for painting and weathering. It is a liquid rubber. I am sure there
are other like products out there, but I really like this stuff. It sticks great, but peels off very easily. After grit
blasting the hand rails, I painted the ends white. Let it dry for a couple days and then painted this stuff on them.
This stuff dries quickly. I tip here, goop it on. DO NOT use a thin coat. The thicker the coat, the easier it is to
remove. Also, do not touch this stuff with brush that is tacky or dry, it will stick and peel your mask right off. You
can only add fresh WET solution to build your layers or coats. After this stuff dries, I then paint the handrails
the other color. On this model it was gray. After the paint dries so I can handle the parts, I use a needle nose
tweezer and pick at it. I grab an edge and peel it down. The goop is wrapped around the hand rail, so it does
not just pull off. I peel it down into a ball and then nip it will PBL cutters. I then can pull it off. The result is a
pristine crisp paint job on your hand rails. Also because the hand rails are grit blasted, the paint is on for good
because the grit blasting gives the Delrin a nice toothy edge.
Another good use for this stuff is when weathering your grill areas. I first paint this stuff around the grill frame
and all over the hood. This way I can shoot my airbrush just into the grill area and not on the hood. When
done, just peel it off. If it gets into nook and crannies, just take some dried rubber and dab at it. It will usually
pull it right out.
I want to give special thanks to Eric Ethridge of E.L.S. Trains for making the decals for me. I am sure I will be
using his services for future projects.
are other like products out there, but I really like this stuff. It sticks great, but peels off very easily. After grit
blasting the hand rails, I painted the ends white. Let it dry for a couple days and then painted this stuff on them.
This stuff dries quickly. I tip here, goop it on. DO NOT use a thin coat. The thicker the coat, the easier it is to
remove. Also, do not touch this stuff with brush that is tacky or dry, it will stick and peel your mask right off. You
can only add fresh WET solution to build your layers or coats. After this stuff dries, I then paint the handrails
the other color. On this model it was gray. After the paint dries so I can handle the parts, I use a needle nose
tweezer and pick at it. I grab an edge and peel it down. The goop is wrapped around the hand rail, so it does
not just pull off. I peel it down into a ball and then nip it will PBL cutters. I then can pull it off. The result is a
pristine crisp paint job on your hand rails. Also because the hand rails are grit blasted, the paint is on for good
because the grit blasting gives the Delrin a nice toothy edge.
Another good use for this stuff is when weathering your grill areas. I first paint this stuff around the grill frame
and all over the hood. This way I can shoot my airbrush just into the grill area and not on the hood. When
done, just peel it off. If it gets into nook and crannies, just take some dried rubber and dab at it. It will usually
pull it right out.
I want to give special thanks to Eric Ethridge of E.L.S. Trains for making the decals for me. I am sure I will be
using his services for future projects.
The fans and grills are not glued in place right now. I need to be able to weather inside the fan shroud and also
the fan hubs/ blades. After that I can glue them in place. Right now they are just sitting on the model.
From here on out, the article will turn to weathering. I will be experimenting with several techniques.
Before adding the flat finish, I will apply the first wash. I'll do this because I want my first wash to just hide in the
nooks and crannies. In the grill recesses. I do not want to outline everything though. That would look nasty. I'll
use a subtle wash. One that is a mix of light gray with a touch of brown in it.
the fan hubs/ blades. After that I can glue them in place. Right now they are just sitting on the model.
From here on out, the article will turn to weathering. I will be experimenting with several techniques.
Before adding the flat finish, I will apply the first wash. I'll do this because I want my first wash to just hide in the
nooks and crannies. In the grill recesses. I do not want to outline everything though. That would look nasty. I'll
use a subtle wash. One that is a mix of light gray with a touch of brown in it.
