Building Hood Sides, Page 4
Remember we put in a 0.020" x 0.060" spacer between the last engine room door and the first
radiator door. The next spacer will be a 0.020" x 0.040". Following the same construction
sequence as building the engine room compartment, I am going to tackle the radiator
compartment.
Notice just to the left of the first radiator door is the end of the 0.015" strip that runs along the
top of the engine room doors.
Slide the door out and glue the spacer in place. I know this is getting a bit repetitious, but I
want to show you each step as I go to give you as much detail as possible to help you in your
construction.
radiator door. The next spacer will be a 0.020" x 0.040". Following the same construction
sequence as building the engine room compartment, I am going to tackle the radiator
compartment.
Notice just to the left of the first radiator door is the end of the 0.015" strip that runs along the
top of the engine room doors.
Slide the door out and glue the spacer in place. I know this is getting a bit repetitious, but I
want to show you each step as I go to give you as much detail as possible to help you in your
construction.
Do it again and..............................
again.
This will be the last spacer before the last single door on the SD40-2 and SD38-2. You will
notice I have not gone over what size doors to use. This is not necessarily an article on
building SD40-2 or SD38-2 hood sides. It is more of a general procedure for building any EMD
second gen diesel hood side. The concepts should be the same for any of them from the
GP35 up to the SD40-2 and possibly the SD50 and SD60. I do not really count those in
because they do not have the DB hatch in the same location as their predecessor units did.
again.
This will be the last spacer before the last single door on the SD40-2 and SD38-2. You will
notice I have not gone over what size doors to use. This is not necessarily an article on
building SD40-2 or SD38-2 hood sides. It is more of a general procedure for building any EMD
second gen diesel hood side. The concepts should be the same for any of them from the
GP35 up to the SD40-2 and possibly the SD50 and SD60. I do not really count those in
because they do not have the DB hatch in the same location as their predecessor units did.
Here you can see all the radiator doors in place. The upside down sight glass door is just in
there for reference because also in this photo I show the installation of a 0.010" x 0.020" strip
up along the top of the doors. It does not go past the last door.
Now the doors are completely enclosed and squared. The last strip to add is a 0.020" x 0.020"
along the hinge line of the last door. I'll do that before adding the rest of the laminate to build
the radiator section and end of the long hood.
there for reference because also in this photo I show the installation of a 0.010" x 0.020" strip
up along the top of the doors. It does not go past the last door.
Now the doors are completely enclosed and squared. The last strip to add is a 0.020" x 0.020"
along the hinge line of the last door. I'll do that before adding the rest of the laminate to build
the radiator section and end of the long hood.
As you see here I added the 0.020" x 0.020" strip along the last door. I have also added a
0.020" x 0.040" strip along the bottom.
You will notice in this photo also the 0.020" x 0.125" strip that runs along the bottom has been
cut back. It has not been cut to the hood length, but slightly longer. When the rest of the
radiator section is in place, I will fine tune this to length with my sanding stick.
I want to make a note here for you. Again, check your prototype. Some panel lines need to
bee seen. These are the sheet metal seams. Some joints you want to sand smooth and show
no seams and others you want to see.
0.020" x 0.040" strip along the bottom.
You will notice in this photo also the 0.020" x 0.125" strip that runs along the bottom has been
cut back. It has not been cut to the hood length, but slightly longer. When the rest of the
radiator section is in place, I will fine tune this to length with my sanding stick.
I want to make a note here for you. Again, check your prototype. Some panel lines need to
bee seen. These are the sheet metal seams. Some joints you want to sand smooth and show
no seams and others you want to see.
This is how I let everything rest when I am done gluing. I want to avoid any chance of warping
so when I walk away or turn in for the night I lay heavy objects on the sides.
so when I walk away or turn in for the night I lay heavy objects on the sides.
Add the doors and another 0.020" x 0.040" spacer. True up the doors with the squaring blocks
and tack glue the spacer.
Slide out the door and glue in the spacer.
and tack glue the spacer.
Slide out the door and glue in the spacer.
