Building Hood Sides, Page 3
Another view showing closer up the right hood side. I still have to finish the weld line that runs
to the left of where the inertial filter screen will be. You can see the weld bead a bit better in
this photo and you will also see the two drain ports just to the left of the door.
The drain ports were simulated with Plastruct 0.010 round styrene rod. The holes were located
and drilled with a 0.011" (#85) drill bit. While drilling those holes I also drilled through a small
piece of 0.005" sheet styrene. Then I glued the rod into the holes. After the glued dried I
slipped the 0.005" sheet over the rod on the face of the hood side and using PBL flush cutters,
I pressed the cutter down onto the 0.005" sheet and nipped the rod off. After removing the
sheet, my drain ports stuck out from the face of the hood 0.005" and had a nice sharp edge to
them. I have to do this also for the left side, but there is only one hole.
You can get smaller than #80 drill bits from a company called Small Parts Inc. I am sure there
are other places, but that is where I get mine.
to the left of where the inertial filter screen will be. You can see the weld bead a bit better in
this photo and you will also see the two drain ports just to the left of the door.
The drain ports were simulated with Plastruct 0.010 round styrene rod. The holes were located
and drilled with a 0.011" (#85) drill bit. While drilling those holes I also drilled through a small
piece of 0.005" sheet styrene. Then I glued the rod into the holes. After the glued dried I
slipped the 0.005" sheet over the rod on the face of the hood side and using PBL flush cutters,
I pressed the cutter down onto the 0.005" sheet and nipped the rod off. After removing the
sheet, my drain ports stuck out from the face of the hood 0.005" and had a nice sharp edge to
them. I have to do this also for the left side, but there is only one hole.
You can get smaller than #80 drill bits from a company called Small Parts Inc. I am sure there
are other places, but that is where I get mine.
Moving right along with laying in the door spacers. I forgot to take the first sequential photo of
installing the first door spacer after the blower opening. In this photo though you can see how
it is done. Using the same steps I will explain here. The first spacer is a piece of 0.020" x
0.040" cut to the height of the door using my NWSL Chopper.
installing the first door spacer after the blower opening. In this photo though you can see how
it is done. Using the same steps I will explain here. The first spacer is a piece of 0.020" x
0.040" cut to the height of the door using my NWSL Chopper.
I want to make sure the doors and spacers are perpendicular to the top and bottom edges of
the hood side. To do this I naturally used the squaring blocks. After placing in the first spacer
after the blower opening, I placed in the first two doors.
These are the new door design from Cannon & Co. They do not have rear door detail and are
solid. They are very easy now to square up.
After laying in the doors, I cut another piece of 0.020" x 0.040" strip. I slid the squaring block
up against this so the doors were snug in place, but not so tight you could not slide them up. I
then carefully tack glued the top and bottom of the strip to the hood side. Take care not to
glue the door in place.
the hood side. To do this I naturally used the squaring blocks. After placing in the first spacer
after the blower opening, I placed in the first two doors.
These are the new door design from Cannon & Co. They do not have rear door detail and are
solid. They are very easy now to square up.
After laying in the doors, I cut another piece of 0.020" x 0.040" strip. I slid the squaring block
up against this so the doors were snug in place, but not so tight you could not slide them up. I
then carefully tack glued the top and bottom of the strip to the hood side. Take care not to
glue the door in place.
I then slid the doors out and glued the spacer in place. Be sparing with your glue application. If
you get it under the spacer block, you will glue it to the hood side. Not really, but it will make a
mess. Remove the block and glue the other side.
Now you have our first door section in place. I advise you NOT to glue your doors in yet. Do
not glue any of the Cannon & Co. parts in place until you have the laminates all in place.
you get it under the spacer block, you will glue it to the hood side. Not really, but it will make a
mess. Remove the block and glue the other side.
Now you have our first door section in place. I advise you NOT to glue your doors in yet. Do
not glue any of the Cannon & Co. parts in place until you have the laminates all in place.
Now move to the middle engine compartment doors. Lay in your doors and then cut the door
spacer. This door spacer is going to be a piece of 0.020" x 0.080" styrene strip.
You can see again here the use of the squaring blocks on the ends and along the bottom.
Also again you can see the spacers cut to the height of the doors.
Tack glue the strip in again being careful not to glue in any of the doors.
As before, remove the doors and glue the strip in place. Remove the block and glue the strip
from the other side.
If you look to the upper left of this photo, you will see another piece of 0.015 sheet under the
squaring block. This is to keep the block all on the same plane.
spacer. This door spacer is going to be a piece of 0.020" x 0.080" styrene strip.
You can see again here the use of the squaring blocks on the ends and along the bottom.
Also again you can see the spacers cut to the height of the doors.
Tack glue the strip in again being careful not to glue in any of the doors.
As before, remove the doors and glue the strip in place. Remove the block and glue the strip
from the other side.
If you look to the upper left of this photo, you will see another piece of 0.015 sheet under the
squaring block. This is to keep the block all on the same plane.
Following the same sequence as the previous door spacers, cut a 0.020" x 0.060" spacer.
Difference is this spacer is going to be cut to the height of the radiator compartment do
Glue the spacer in place just as before.
Difference is this spacer is going to be cut to the height of the radiator compartment do
Glue the spacer in place just as before.
I am building my own dynamic brake hatch, but I used the Kato hatch as a reference. To get
the correct roof height, I added a strip of 0.015" x 0.020" strip along the top of the door. Do
not glue this strip in past the last engine room door.
Though on the prototype it does appear that the DB hatch sits right on top of the doors, there
is an ever so small gap there. The DB grills do not contact the door. The space is probably
smaller than the 0.015" I am using, but once all this is together, that space looks even smaller
and when I get the DB hatch built, I will be fine tuning this spacer to the correct height.
With this strip, you need to choose your DB hatch and apply the correct width accordingly to
get the DB hatch to the correct roof height.
So we are done with the engine room doors. Both sides are built the same way with the same
size spacers.
the correct roof height, I added a strip of 0.015" x 0.020" strip along the top of the door. Do
not glue this strip in past the last engine room door.
Though on the prototype it does appear that the DB hatch sits right on top of the doors, there
is an ever so small gap there. The DB grills do not contact the door. The space is probably
smaller than the 0.015" I am using, but once all this is together, that space looks even smaller
and when I get the DB hatch built, I will be fine tuning this spacer to the correct height.
With this strip, you need to choose your DB hatch and apply the correct width accordingly to
get the DB hatch to the correct roof height.
So we are done with the engine room doors. Both sides are built the same way with the same
size spacers.
