GP38-2 Super Models, page 2
I left off on page one by finishing up the surface detail removal. Since then I have made a change
to my plan of attack. You will see it in the following photos and you can sort of see it in the first
photo.
So next up is to start cutting out the parts I want to replace. That would include the long hood
end, cab sub base and nose. I'll start with the long hood end.
to my plan of attack. You will see it in the following photos and you can sort of see it in the first
photo.
So next up is to start cutting out the parts I want to replace. That would include the long hood
end, cab sub base and nose. I'll start with the long hood end.
The Athearn hood from the back of the cab to the vertical seam on the long hood end is a bit
longer than the prototype. My best estimation it is approximately 0.040" to long after the radiator
grills. I tried to correct this by taking off the offending portion, but that puts the long hood end
over empty deck space and also leaves a HUGE gap between the hood end and the Cannon & Co.
tread plate. So as modelers, this is one discrepancy we need to live with.
Unlike the Atlas GP's, the Athearn GP's do not give you a line of reference to cut along. If you look
at the back end of an Atlas shell you will see a mold parting line. Perfect reference line for cutting
the long hood end off. I need to find this line and have determined that it is located 0.330" back
from the pilot face. The photo above illustrates this. So I measure back and make a mark on both
sides.
longer than the prototype. My best estimation it is approximately 0.040" to long after the radiator
grills. I tried to correct this by taking off the offending portion, but that puts the long hood end
over empty deck space and also leaves a HUGE gap between the hood end and the Cannon & Co.
tread plate. So as modelers, this is one discrepancy we need to live with.
Unlike the Atlas GP's, the Athearn GP's do not give you a line of reference to cut along. If you look
at the back end of an Atlas shell you will see a mold parting line. Perfect reference line for cutting
the long hood end off. I need to find this line and have determined that it is located 0.330" back
from the pilot face. The photo above illustrates this. So I measure back and make a mark on both
sides.
After making my mark, I stand the metal scale up on end against the shell and scribe a reference
line. I do this to both sides. Now I have a line of reference to cut along. I do not cut it off yet and
the next step is my change of plans.
line. I do this to both sides. Now I have a line of reference to cut along. I do not cut it off yet and
the next step is my change of plans.
If you look at the top of the hood at the long hood end in the first photo, you will see a circular mill
cut. I also mentioned that the Athearn shell does not have a vertical reference line for cutting off
the long hood. What it does have is a reference line for the top of the long hood. There is a mold
parting line at the top of the long hood end. Because of the thickness of the Athearn shell at the
top of the long hood end, it is a lot of work trying to square up the long hood end cuts at the top.
There is a lot of plastic still below this line that needs to be cut out in order to properly fit the
long hood end in. My change of plans is to use the Cannon & Co. roof stock. The mold parting line
is the perfect reference line to set my mills cutting bit to and scalp the roof. You can see this in
the photo above. After making the cut there is a very thin film of plastic left which is easily
trimmed out which you can see in the photo below.
cut. I also mentioned that the Athearn shell does not have a vertical reference line for cutting off
the long hood. What it does have is a reference line for the top of the long hood. There is a mold
parting line at the top of the long hood end. Because of the thickness of the Athearn shell at the
top of the long hood end, it is a lot of work trying to square up the long hood end cuts at the top.
There is a lot of plastic still below this line that needs to be cut out in order to properly fit the
long hood end in. My change of plans is to use the Cannon & Co. roof stock. The mold parting line
is the perfect reference line to set my mills cutting bit to and scalp the roof. You can see this in
the photo above. After making the cut there is a very thin film of plastic left which is easily
trimmed out which you can see in the photo below.
With the roof cut off, you can now see that it is at the correct height of the Cannon & Co. long
hood end.
Before you go complaining that I have the wrong long hood end, I know! I do not have my Dash 2
ends yet and am just using it for reference.
hood end.
Before you go complaining that I have the wrong long hood end, I know! I do not have my Dash 2
ends yet and am just using it for reference.
Next task at hand is to cut the long hood end out. I simply use a pair of Zuron nippers and cut it
out. I take small cuts so as not to split the plastic. I cut close to my scribe lines. After making this
cut, I use a VERY sharp knife and trim up to the scribe lines and finish the cut. I then sand it all
and what you see below is the finished end.
out. I take small cuts so as not to split the plastic. I cut close to my scribe lines. After making this
cut, I use a VERY sharp knife and trim up to the scribe lines and finish the cut. I then sand it all
and what you see below is the finished end.
This shell is now ready for a Cannon & Co. long hood end and roof stock. This same procedure
was done to all the shells.
was done to all the shells.
Showing a test fit of a hood end. Now I can turn my attention to the removal of the nose and cab
sub base.
sub base.
The removal of the nose and cab sub base is a manual labor job. It is not difficult, but very time
consuming. I start by sawing off the top of the nose and battery boxes.
consuming. I start by sawing off the top of the nose and battery boxes.
After I finish sawing off the tops, I then use a pair of Zuron nippers and cut as much as I can down
to the side sill. I also cut off the ECAFB and the molded on cab steps at the back right side of the
sub base. I leave just a very small amount of nose and sub base left to be finished off with a very
sharp knife.
to the side sill. I also cut off the ECAFB and the molded on cab steps at the back right side of the
sub base. I leave just a very small amount of nose and sub base left to be finished off with a very
sharp knife.
Using a VERY sharp knife, I clean the rest of the nose and cab sub base down to the deck and
side sill. I finish up with wet sanding and then to make sure everything is even across both sides,
I measure the height of the side sill and I am good within 0.001" all the way across. This finishes
up the major surgery on the shell. The rest is small detail removal such as the air reservoirs,
jacking pads and steps. The shell you see in the photo above will also get a rework of the step
well.
side sill. I finish up with wet sanding and then to make sure everything is even across both sides,
I measure the height of the side sill and I am good within 0.001" all the way across. This finishes
up the major surgery on the shell. The rest is small detail removal such as the air reservoirs,
jacking pads and steps. The shell you see in the photo above will also get a rework of the step
well.