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View of the model after its paint and clear coat. From here I let everythign dry for about a week before touching
it again. My choice for a clear coat is Future Floor Shine. You can get it in a big bottle very cheaply and it will
last you a long time. It also sprays beautifully through an air brush.
Something I learned here. On light colored models where the paint does not cover well in one coat, do not put
the ECAFB in place just yet. It is VERY hard to get paint back behind it.
The cab roof and number boards are still not glued in place. Also, can you pick out the paint error? Give up!
OK, I'll tell you. The strobe light base is not supposed to be orange. It has since been painted silver.
I have had many people ask me what I use for sanding hoses. They are Miniatronics 1.5V bulb wire with
insulations. It is flexible and forms well to shape. I attach it to the frame and then feed it through Details
Associates formed lift rings. The holes have to be opened just a tad to allow the wire to slip through. After
everything is done being weathered, I will ACC the wires in the eyelets. It works well. I have already had to
remove them once after being ACCed. Not paying close attention to which side I was installing the truck side
frame with the speed recorder on it, I placed it on the wrong side. Then proceeded to glue the wires into the
eyelets. About a week later I placed the shell on the frame and something just did not look right. Checked the
prototype photo and as usual, I screwed the pooch on the speed recorder. The wires pulled out of the eyelets
with no problem. I just put a small amount of ZAP-A-GAP from the bottom. Fixes them in place so they do not
pull out when the truck swivels.
it again. My choice for a clear coat is Future Floor Shine. You can get it in a big bottle very cheaply and it will
last you a long time. It also sprays beautifully through an air brush.
Something I learned here. On light colored models where the paint does not cover well in one coat, do not put
the ECAFB in place just yet. It is VERY hard to get paint back behind it.
The cab roof and number boards are still not glued in place. Also, can you pick out the paint error? Give up!
OK, I'll tell you. The strobe light base is not supposed to be orange. It has since been painted silver.
I have had many people ask me what I use for sanding hoses. They are Miniatronics 1.5V bulb wire with
insulations. It is flexible and forms well to shape. I attach it to the frame and then feed it through Details
Associates formed lift rings. The holes have to be opened just a tad to allow the wire to slip through. After
everything is done being weathered, I will ACC the wires in the eyelets. It works well. I have already had to
remove them once after being ACCed. Not paying close attention to which side I was installing the truck side
frame with the speed recorder on it, I placed it on the wrong side. Then proceeded to glue the wires into the
eyelets. About a week later I placed the shell on the frame and something just did not look right. Checked the
prototype photo and as usual, I screwed the pooch on the speed recorder. The wires pulled out of the eyelets
with no problem. I just put a small amount of ZAP-A-GAP from the bottom. Fixes them in place so they do not
pull out when the truck swivels.
I hate painting window and number board gaskets and nobody makes decals that fit Cannon & Co. gaskets. So
my mind started spinning again with how to overcome this. As it is, Microscale makes a decal sheet with class
light gaskets and number board gaskets. The class light gaskets do not fit the Cannon & Co. class lights either.
So I cut the class light gaskets into four pieces and put them in each corner of the window. I then filled the
straight lines in with number board gasket lines. I use Solvaset to set them in and after I painted the inside area
black. Now I have nice crisp outlines and a full black window gasket.
In the photo above you can see the door is done and the left window is getting started. Below is one rear cab
window. Here you can see just the decal job done. The photo below it is with the inside area painted black.
my mind started spinning again with how to overcome this. As it is, Microscale makes a decal sheet with class
light gaskets and number board gaskets. The class light gaskets do not fit the Cannon & Co. class lights either.
So I cut the class light gaskets into four pieces and put them in each corner of the window. I then filled the
straight lines in with number board gasket lines. I use Solvaset to set them in and after I painted the inside area
black. Now I have nice crisp outlines and a full black window gasket.
In the photo above you can see the door is done and the left window is getting started. Below is one rear cab
window. Here you can see just the decal job done. The photo below it is with the inside area painted black.
The next series of photos is after decaling. This is how the model was shown at teh Lake Region RPM meet.
Unfortunately after these photos were taken, my digital camera died. I had to send it back to Nikon for repair. In
the mean time, I have gotten al the weathering done so there will not be any in progress weathering photos to
show. Very sorry for that. When I ge the camera back, I will have a series of finished model photos.
Unfortunately after these photos were taken, my digital camera died. I had to send it back to Nikon for repair. In
the mean time, I have gotten al the weathering done so there will not be any in progress weathering photos to
show. Very sorry for that. When I ge the camera back, I will have a series of finished model photos.
Here you can see that I have already scuffed the tread plate. I did this before I added the gloss clear coat. I
used an acrylic black. Brush painted it on and before it had a chance to dry I used an eraser and rubbed it off
in teh areas I wanted.
Also about the gasket decaling. Nobody makes a decal that fits the Cannon & Co. class lights. So thanks to ELS
Trains, I measured what I needed and had them custom made. The fit was perfect and a nice crisp circle.
used an acrylic black. Brush painted it on and before it had a chance to dry I used an eraser and rubbed it off
in teh areas I wanted.
Also about the gasket decaling. Nobody makes a decal that fits the Cannon & Co. class lights. So thanks to ELS
Trains, I measured what I needed and had them custom made. The fit was perfect and a nice crisp circle.
