With the trucks done, I can get the frame painted and weathered. I'll first go over the frame detail
aspects.
From page 1 you can see that I cut 0.030" off the frame from in front of and behind the fuel tank
weight. After that was done, I glued a 0.030" sheet of styrene. The width was cut to a scale 72.625".
aspects.
From page 1 you can see that I cut 0.030" off the frame from in front of and behind the fuel tank
weight. After that was done, I glued a 0.030" sheet of styrene. The width was cut to a scale 72.625".
CONRAIL BEASTS! Page 3
I let the glue set for a day and then cut the truck gear tower openings out. What you do not see is I
laminated a sheet of 0.010" styrene to the inner frame. This covered up any holes that opened when
I milled the frame.
The next thing was to set in the jacking pad supports. This was a very easy task. I simply fit a strip of
0.030" styrene into the frame. I first cut a rectangular piece that was the same height from the
underside of the frame to the bottom of the frame rail minus 0.020". I then notched it to fit inside the
frame rail. The bottom pad support is a sheet of 0.020" styrene. The portion that fits up against the
frame is wider than the part that fits up against the side sill.
laminated a sheet of 0.010" styrene to the inner frame. This covered up any holes that opened when
I milled the frame.
The next thing was to set in the jacking pad supports. This was a very easy task. I simply fit a strip of
0.030" styrene into the frame. I first cut a rectangular piece that was the same height from the
underside of the frame to the bottom of the frame rail minus 0.020". I then notched it to fit inside the
frame rail. The bottom pad support is a sheet of 0.020" styrene. The portion that fits up against the
frame is wider than the part that fits up against the side sill.
After installing the jacking pad supports, I then setup the fuel tank. I found something unusual with
the fuel tank I had. It was 0.030" to short. Luckily I found this out just after I had all the detail parts
glued on. I was able to safely remove them. I glued a sheet of 0.030" styrene to the top of the tank. I
trimmed it to size and that manufacturing error was all fixed. I do not think this actually made it to
the mass manufacturing stage. I got this undec tank from an Athearn insider and it may have been a
pre-production tank. I then added the end sheets back on as well as the detail parts. Basically the
tank will never be removed again. That is why you see the motor mount holes drilled through the
bottom. The large union you see at the front of the frame is the toilet clean out pipe.
The tank was not yet glued in place. The next task was the traction motor cables.
the fuel tank I had. It was 0.030" to short. Luckily I found this out just after I had all the detail parts
glued on. I was able to safely remove them. I glued a sheet of 0.030" styrene to the top of the tank. I
trimmed it to size and that manufacturing error was all fixed. I do not think this actually made it to
the mass manufacturing stage. I got this undec tank from an Athearn insider and it may have been a
pre-production tank. I then added the end sheets back on as well as the detail parts. Basically the
tank will never be removed again. That is why you see the motor mount holes drilled through the
bottom. The large union you see at the front of the frame is the toilet clean out pipe.
The tank was not yet glued in place. The next task was the traction motor cables.
The traction motor cables are 0.015" dia. solder. I originally found this solder at Radio Shack.
Unfortunately they do not carry this size anymore. I have found it on the internet in large spools
though. The traction motor cable brackets are from Railflyer Model Prototypes.
On the fuel tank you see light gray detail parts and dark gray detail parts. The light gray parts are
from Athearn and the dark gray parts are from Cannon & Co.
Unfortunately they do not carry this size anymore. I have found it on the internet in large spools
though. The traction motor cable brackets are from Railflyer Model Prototypes.
On the fuel tank you see light gray detail parts and dark gray detail parts. The light gray parts are
from Athearn and the dark gray parts are from Cannon & Co.
With the traction motor cables routed and done, I glued the fuel tank in place and started work on
the draft gear boxes. You can see the draft gear box is cut a bit short front to back. That is because
of the truck gear case. If I made the draft gear box to prototype size, it would interfere with the
truck gear box.
The little white post you see just in front of the traction motor cables is the portion of the brake
valve that is visible below the sill. It is a simple piece of 0.035" dia. styrene rod glued into a hole.
Now that I have the construction done, it is time to paint it all. This will get a basic coat of black. I'll
use Scale Coat II on this model. This is the first model I have used this brand of paint on and I like it.
Scale Coat II is now my paint of choice.
I let the paint dry for about a week and began my weathering process. I used the same basic
procedures as I did on the truck sets so there is no need to do step by step photos. What you see
below is the finished process. I used multiple washes of different colors and shades over about a
month period. In between washes, I also used some dry brush techniques and then applied washes
over that. These techniques create depth in color and give you the effect of layered dirt and grim. I
also experimented with mixing pigment powders into the washes and they work nice as well giving
a dusty look when the wash dries. I then lightly manipulated the dried pigments to create a different
effect. Oil and fuel spills were done by using a diluted gloss black. Clumped oiled dirt along the
face of the fuel tank was simulated by applying pigments and then applying thinner to set them.
the draft gear boxes. You can see the draft gear box is cut a bit short front to back. That is because
of the truck gear case. If I made the draft gear box to prototype size, it would interfere with the
truck gear box.
The little white post you see just in front of the traction motor cables is the portion of the brake
valve that is visible below the sill. It is a simple piece of 0.035" dia. styrene rod glued into a hole.
Now that I have the construction done, it is time to paint it all. This will get a basic coat of black. I'll
use Scale Coat II on this model. This is the first model I have used this brand of paint on and I like it.
Scale Coat II is now my paint of choice.
I let the paint dry for about a week and began my weathering process. I used the same basic
procedures as I did on the truck sets so there is no need to do step by step photos. What you see
below is the finished process. I used multiple washes of different colors and shades over about a
month period. In between washes, I also used some dry brush techniques and then applied washes
over that. These techniques create depth in color and give you the effect of layered dirt and grim. I
also experimented with mixing pigment powders into the washes and they work nice as well giving
a dusty look when the wash dries. I then lightly manipulated the dried pigments to create a different
effect. Oil and fuel spills were done by using a diluted gloss black. Clumped oiled dirt along the
face of the fuel tank was simulated by applying pigments and then applying thinner to set them.
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