CONRAIL BEASTS!, Page 2
Since I started this article, I have gotten a lot more done on the SD45-2. I am going to jump back to the
45-2 model for a while. It is moving along well and I will most likely finish it before I get back to the SDP45.
As you have seen from the previous page, I have gotten the frame cut. I have also now finished detailing
the frame and will get into that in due time. So as I usually do, starting from the bottom up I have to get
the trucks done.
45-2 model for a while. It is moving along well and I will most likely finish it before I get back to the SDP45.
As you have seen from the previous page, I have gotten the frame cut. I have also now finished detailing
the frame and will get into that in due time. So as I usually do, starting from the bottom up I have to get
the trucks done.
The first thing I do to my side frames is clean up all the parting lines and flash. Here you see a nearly
completed side frame. I only need to tie the sanding hoses back. A word of caution here and you will see
it a bit further on in this article. There is not much room for the outboard sanding hose. In order to allow
the trucks to swivel, I had to cut the outboard sanding hoses back and just let them be simulated in place.
One modification I made to the side frames is the rear casting hole. You can see it on the curvature of the
side frame.
The brake air line turned out perfect. In fact all four of them did. The September 1984 issue of Mainline
modeler that has a great template. It is very difficult to explain my method for making these lines, but I
made them to match exactly the bends. At the top center I built a hold down bracket. I took a piece of
0.012" brass wire and smashed one end flat in a machinist vice. I then annealed just the flattened part. I
drilled a small hole just at the front edge and glued this wire into the hole. The air line rested right at the
front edge of the side frame and against the flattened wire. Annealing the brass makes it VERY soft, so I
bent it around and formed it to the air line. Now the air line lays perfectly along the side frame.
The journal retainers are from Details West. They are made of some very hard plastic and are difficult to
glue in place. They keep breaking away so I used some ACC to help them stay.
completed side frame. I only need to tie the sanding hoses back. A word of caution here and you will see
it a bit further on in this article. There is not much room for the outboard sanding hose. In order to allow
the trucks to swivel, I had to cut the outboard sanding hoses back and just let them be simulated in place.
One modification I made to the side frames is the rear casting hole. You can see it on the curvature of the
side frame.
The brake air line turned out perfect. In fact all four of them did. The September 1984 issue of Mainline
modeler that has a great template. It is very difficult to explain my method for making these lines, but I
made them to match exactly the bends. At the top center I built a hold down bracket. I took a piece of
0.012" brass wire and smashed one end flat in a machinist vice. I then annealed just the flattened part. I
drilled a small hole just at the front edge and glued this wire into the hole. The air line rested right at the
front edge of the side frame and against the flattened wire. Annealing the brass makes it VERY soft, so I
bent it around and formed it to the air line. Now the air line lays perfectly along the side frame.
The journal retainers are from Details West. They are made of some very hard plastic and are difficult to
glue in place. They keep breaking away so I used some ACC to help them stay.
The trucks are assembled and painted now. They also have a coat of gloss on them. This is the lead truck.
You can see the inboard sanding hoses and notice you cannot see the outboard sanding hoses. As I
mentioned earlier, I had to nip them a bit. The sanding nozzle is still there with a small amount of hose
attached and then run in behind the side frame. The step well would not allow the truck to swivel with any
hose hanging out. So as with all models, a bit of compromise had to be made.
In this view you can also see I used the new Details West traction motor detail parts. Also with this detail,
the gear tower and side frames are permanently attached. That is OK though. I find that the only gear that
would ever have to be replaced is the axle gear and those are easy to remove by just detaching the
bottom plate. I lubed the gears up nicely with a heavy oil. The parts of course were painted black clear
coated prior to assembly. After assembly I had to fill the gaps were the traction motor bracket ties to the
side frames. After all the glue dried and I cleaned the joints I repainted and clear coated just that area.
The trucks are now ready for their first pass at weathering. The wheels have already been painted and
weathered and you can see my technique for this HERE. One thing that needs to be understood.
Weathering is very difficult to explain and the photos do not show all the needed subtleties in color and
the changes that are made. When colors and washes are added. In some photos it will look as though
nothing was done. It all comes together in the end and the effects are very apparent to the naked eye.
You can see the inboard sanding hoses and notice you cannot see the outboard sanding hoses. As I
mentioned earlier, I had to nip them a bit. The sanding nozzle is still there with a small amount of hose
attached and then run in behind the side frame. The step well would not allow the truck to swivel with any
hose hanging out. So as with all models, a bit of compromise had to be made.
In this view you can also see I used the new Details West traction motor detail parts. Also with this detail,
the gear tower and side frames are permanently attached. That is OK though. I find that the only gear that
would ever have to be replaced is the axle gear and those are easy to remove by just detaching the
bottom plate. I lubed the gears up nicely with a heavy oil. The parts of course were painted black clear
coated prior to assembly. After assembly I had to fill the gaps were the traction motor bracket ties to the
side frames. After all the glue dried and I cleaned the joints I repainted and clear coated just that area.
The trucks are now ready for their first pass at weathering. The wheels have already been painted and
weathered and you can see my technique for this HERE. One thing that needs to be understood.
Weathering is very difficult to explain and the photos do not show all the needed subtleties in color and
the changes that are made. When colors and washes are added. In some photos it will look as though
nothing was done. It all comes together in the end and the effects are very apparent to the naked eye.
The truck still has a gloss coat on it. The first thing I want to do is give the truck a gray haze and lighten
up the nooks and crannies. This will be my base for other colors to collect on for highlights. The first
thing I do is paint on a coat of white. I use thinned artist oils for this. I make sure I fully cover the truck
and get the brush into all the corners and other hiding places. I also cover the gear tower parts that will
be visible. I hate to have the look of a weathered truck side frame and then a nice clean gear tower. I let
this sit for about 10 to 20 minutes. I finish both trucks before I continue to the next step.
up the nooks and crannies. This will be my base for other colors to collect on for highlights. The first
thing I do is paint on a coat of white. I use thinned artist oils for this. I make sure I fully cover the truck
and get the brush into all the corners and other hiding places. I also cover the gear tower parts that will
be visible. I hate to have the look of a weathered truck side frame and then a nice clean gear tower. I let
this sit for about 10 to 20 minutes. I finish both trucks before I continue to the next step.
Next I remove most of the wash I just applied. You can see here the white that has been left in the tight
spaces. What really makes this process possible is the gloss coat. It is basically to slippery for the oils to
attach to, so it wipes off nicely. To remove the oil wash, I use an artist eraser. It is one of those gray
pliable eraser. You can squeeze it thin or put a point on it to get into the tough spots. You cannot really
see it in this photo, but there is a slight haze over the side frame surface as well. Some of the oil is
completely wiped off and the surface is glossy and other parts have a dull white haze to it.
I will now let this sit for a couple days to dry before I put on the clear flat finish. Then the true weathering
fun will begin and you will see how the applications of color will make the truck frame come to life. One
thing you really have to learn about when using oils is patience. It is not really until after the oils dry that
you see the true effects. And you have to know when to stop!
spaces. What really makes this process possible is the gloss coat. It is basically to slippery for the oils to
attach to, so it wipes off nicely. To remove the oil wash, I use an artist eraser. It is one of those gray
pliable eraser. You can squeeze it thin or put a point on it to get into the tough spots. You cannot really
see it in this photo, but there is a slight haze over the side frame surface as well. Some of the oil is
completely wiped off and the surface is glossy and other parts have a dull white haze to it.
I will now let this sit for a couple days to dry before I put on the clear flat finish. Then the true weathering
fun will begin and you will see how the applications of color will make the truck frame come to life. One
thing you really have to learn about when using oils is patience. It is not really until after the oils dry that
you see the true effects. And you have to know when to stop!
Now the truck has been given a coat of clear flat and allowed to dry for a day. All that white you see will
soon be changed.
soon be changed.
The next process in my weathering methodology is to apply a dark brown coat of paint to the truck.
Everything I do from here out is with the use of artist oils. I use some Burnt Umber and dry brush it on all
surfaces and work it into the nooks and crannies. I see that I missed a spot behind the snubber on the
center axle. This process is to give the truck that old brown look. I start with dark colors and will move my
way up to lighter colors.
Everything I do from here out is with the use of artist oils. I use some Burnt Umber and dry brush it on all
surfaces and work it into the nooks and crannies. I see that I missed a spot behind the snubber on the
center axle. This process is to give the truck that old brown look. I start with dark colors and will move my
way up to lighter colors.
As I mentioned earlier, in some photos you will not be able to see any changes and that is true in this
photo. There is a change though and a significant one. Although the truck still looks brown in this photo,
it is not entirely true. As soon as I am done dry brushing the Burnt Umber on, I begin to remove as much
of it as I can. With the truck now having a flat finish, the surface has more "tooth" to it to hold paint. Using
my artist eraser again (my favorite weathering tool) I begin to remove the brown from the surface. I now
have a truck with heavier brown deposits in the tight places and not quite a black color, but a
black/brownish color to the open broad surfaces. This is what I wanted for a base to start working lighter
colors into.
photo. There is a change though and a significant one. Although the truck still looks brown in this photo,
it is not entirely true. As soon as I am done dry brushing the Burnt Umber on, I begin to remove as much
of it as I can. With the truck now having a flat finish, the surface has more "tooth" to it to hold paint. Using
my artist eraser again (my favorite weathering tool) I begin to remove the brown from the surface. I now
have a truck with heavier brown deposits in the tight places and not quite a black color, but a
black/brownish color to the open broad surfaces. This is what I wanted for a base to start working lighter
colors into.
Now it is time for my first real dry brush application. The term "dry brush" is exactly that, a dry brush. You
should have almost no paint on it and the brush needs to be dry meaning DO NOT dip it into thinner first.
The purpose of this technique is to deposit paint on edges to highlight them and to give contrast to the
dark recesses. As you can see, the truck is starting to take on life. You see more depth to the detail.
I mixed up a swatch of yellow ochre, raw sienna and white. Using a paper towel, I wipe off almost all the
paint. I then just use a quick back and forth motion to deposit the paint. If I get to much on a flat surface. I
simply use my favorite tool again (artist eraser) and wipe it off.
The truck weathering is almost done now. I only need to add a few more dry brush highlights of different
colors and add some streaking and maybe some oily ooze from the journals. After that I will add some
pigments to help give it a dusty look and it will be done.
should have almost no paint on it and the brush needs to be dry meaning DO NOT dip it into thinner first.
The purpose of this technique is to deposit paint on edges to highlight them and to give contrast to the
dark recesses. As you can see, the truck is starting to take on life. You see more depth to the detail.
I mixed up a swatch of yellow ochre, raw sienna and white. Using a paper towel, I wipe off almost all the
paint. I then just use a quick back and forth motion to deposit the paint. If I get to much on a flat surface. I
simply use my favorite tool again (artist eraser) and wipe it off.
The truck weathering is almost done now. I only need to add a few more dry brush highlights of different
colors and add some streaking and maybe some oily ooze from the journals. After that I will add some
pigments to help give it a dusty look and it will be done.
Again, you can't see the subtle difference, but in this view I have added a light wash of raw sienna to give
a lighter dirty buildup on the frame. The wash consists of Turpenoid with just a little bit of raw sienna
added to color it. Do not puddle the wash. Just dampen the brush and dab it on. I covered the entire
truck with it. Let this dry for a day or two.
a lighter dirty buildup on the frame. The wash consists of Turpenoid with just a little bit of raw sienna
added to color it. Do not puddle the wash. Just dampen the brush and dab it on. I covered the entire
truck with it. Let this dry for a day or two.
My last wash is a light sandy color to give even more depth to the darker recesses. I mixed white, raw
sienna and yellow ochre. Now I have a good assortment of dirty colors on the truck. I have darker color in
the deeper areas, I have darker browns and lighter browns and I have some heavier buildup areas. There
is one more weathering step, but first I need to let this dry for a day or two.
I know most of you will not try this because of how much time it takes. But patience is well rewarded as
you will soon see. Especially when the overall model is done. It may take longer to actually weather the
model than to build it, but again the rewards far outweigh the time it takes. What I do is work on another
project in between the weathering sessions.
sienna and yellow ochre. Now I have a good assortment of dirty colors on the truck. I have darker color in
the deeper areas, I have darker browns and lighter browns and I have some heavier buildup areas. There
is one more weathering step, but first I need to let this dry for a day or two.
I know most of you will not try this because of how much time it takes. But patience is well rewarded as
you will soon see. Especially when the overall model is done. It may take longer to actually weather the
model than to build it, but again the rewards far outweigh the time it takes. What I do is work on another
project in between the weathering sessions.
Now it is time to put some water marks or other things that might drip down or splash on or leak out. Here
I mixed up a light tan color using yellow ochre, raw sienna and white. I used a toothpick and dabbed a
very small amount in corner areas where wetness might run down. You can see the dabs as a bright tan
looking spot on the side frame. I let this setup for about two minutes or so and then used a very dry wide
flat brush and pulled the color straight down till it was just a light streak. I also added to a couple journals
some payne's gray for some oil stains.
That is about it for the truck weathering. When the entire model is done, I will use the airbrush and add
just a light dusting along the bottom of the truck.
I mixed up a light tan color using yellow ochre, raw sienna and white. I used a toothpick and dabbed a
very small amount in corner areas where wetness might run down. You can see the dabs as a bright tan
looking spot on the side frame. I let this setup for about two minutes or so and then used a very dry wide
flat brush and pulled the color straight down till it was just a light streak. I also added to a couple journals
some payne's gray for some oil stains.
That is about it for the truck weathering. When the entire model is done, I will use the airbrush and add
just a light dusting along the bottom of the truck.
And here is the finished and assembled truck. The wheels have been aged with rust, dirt and grim. You
can see some old oily blackness around the lead journal and the drip marks along the side frame.
can see some old oily blackness around the lead journal and the drip marks along the side frame.
I threw this photo in just to show how the truck looks stuffed under the frame and to give a teaser of the
frame detail.
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frame detail.
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