CONRAIL BEASTS!, Page 1
As usual with my models, I start from the bottom up. So first task is to get the frame setup for detailing. I
am approaching the SD45-2 frames with a different methodology. As you will notice in the first couple
photos, the entire frame has been milled down on either side of the fuel tank.
am approaching the SD45-2 frames with a different methodology. As you will notice in the first couple
photos, the entire frame has been milled down on either side of the fuel tank.
Basically I squared up the frame on the bottom and took the draft angle off where the frame steps up to
support the walkway deck. As I mentioned on the cover page, Athearn actually made the narrowest part of
the frame to scale. I milled it in just a tad and will add 0.010" styrene sheet to clean up the vertical face.
Now on an SD45-2, the bottom frame rail is solid steel 3" thick. I measured this off an Arizona & Californa
SD45-2 ex Clinchfield unit. A scale 3" is 0.034". I figure a sheet of 0.030 styrene is a good choice. I took
0.030" off the bottom of the frame. I did this to both ends.
support the walkway deck. As I mentioned on the cover page, Athearn actually made the narrowest part of
the frame to scale. I milled it in just a tad and will add 0.010" styrene sheet to clean up the vertical face.
Now on an SD45-2, the bottom frame rail is solid steel 3" thick. I measured this off an Arizona & Californa
SD45-2 ex Clinchfield unit. A scale 3" is 0.034". I figure a sheet of 0.030 styrene is a good choice. I took
0.030" off the bottom of the frame. I did this to both ends.
Here you will notice another bit of milling I did. I squared up the coupler mounting pad and also squared
up the frame around the pad. These frames are built with a lot of extra meat in them. Though it looks thin
where the coupler pad is attached to the frame, it is not. What you are seeing here is just a small cavity in
the frame. Down the middle, it is thick.
There are two reasons I squared all this up. First I want to build a prototype looking coupler draft gear
box around the pad. Squaring up the pad will allow me to build the draft gear box squared up without the
problem of a draft angle. Second I cut the notches out of the frame so I have the room to add the pilot
support pipe detail to the bottom of the walkway deck and the backside of the pilot plate and be able to
slip it on over the frame without any interference.
The SD45-2 frame modifications are done. I do not have to do anything around the fuel tank because
these units are ex-EL SD45-2 which had the 5000 gallon fuel tanks built in the same space as a 4000 gallon
tank so the sides go up to just below the side sill. I'll be using the fuel tank that came with the Athearn
model.
up the frame around the pad. These frames are built with a lot of extra meat in them. Though it looks thin
where the coupler pad is attached to the frame, it is not. What you are seeing here is just a small cavity in
the frame. Down the middle, it is thick.
There are two reasons I squared all this up. First I want to build a prototype looking coupler draft gear
box around the pad. Squaring up the pad will allow me to build the draft gear box squared up without the
problem of a draft angle. Second I cut the notches out of the frame so I have the room to add the pilot
support pipe detail to the bottom of the walkway deck and the backside of the pilot plate and be able to
slip it on over the frame without any interference.
The SD45-2 frame modifications are done. I do not have to do anything around the fuel tank because
these units are ex-EL SD45-2 which had the 5000 gallon fuel tanks built in the same space as a 4000 gallon
tank so the sides go up to just below the side sill. I'll be using the fuel tank that came with the Athearn
model.
Athearn SD45-2 Frame
Athearn SD45-2 Frame
Athearn SD45 frame to be used
for the SDP45
for the SDP45
Since there is no off the shelf frame available to build this model, I will have to make my own by choosing
a suitable frame to splice. My choice is the Athearn SD45 frame. I chose this frame because the trucks are
correct for this model and as we all know, Athearn makes the BEST looking side frames and the bonus
being they are made from styrene.
I have made the first pass cuts tot eh frame. This model is going to be built with all the frame detail added
under the deck and it will all slip over the frame. The frame looks thin around the bolster area, but it is
actually very strong. I left 0.035" of material on each side of the opening. I cut the frame to 0.71" wide. The
narrowest part of an SD45 frame in HO scale is 0.735". When I finish, my frame will be only 0.030" wider
than the prototype. Basically 0.015" on each side.
You will notice that I have cut a channel in the bottom of the fuel tank weight. This is to help realign the
frame when I splice it. The SDP45 is 5' longer than an SD45. That is 0.689" in HO scale. I need to cut the
frame and splice in 0.689" of additional material. I also thinned the fuel tank weight. The fuel tank weight
now measures 0.855" wide. From Athearn it is 0.902" wide at the bottom. The sides do taper down. So if
you are going to duplicate this model, start your cuts from the bottom and move up.
So before I get to cutting this frame in a few choice places, lets get some needed information together.
According to the following web site http://www.trainweb.org/utahrails/drgw/locolength.html I got the
following locomotive length information.
- SD45 Bolster Centers are 40' (5.511" in HO)
- Athern Bolster Centers are 5.500". A difference of 0.011". I think we can all live comfortably with that.
- SDP45 Bolster Centers are 45'. Kind of figured that since the locomotive is exactly 5' longer than a
standard SD45
Knowing how close Athearn came to being dead on for the SD45. I am very comfortable using the frame
and splicing the bolster centers 5' further apart.
a suitable frame to splice. My choice is the Athearn SD45 frame. I chose this frame because the trucks are
correct for this model and as we all know, Athearn makes the BEST looking side frames and the bonus
being they are made from styrene.
I have made the first pass cuts tot eh frame. This model is going to be built with all the frame detail added
under the deck and it will all slip over the frame. The frame looks thin around the bolster area, but it is
actually very strong. I left 0.035" of material on each side of the opening. I cut the frame to 0.71" wide. The
narrowest part of an SD45 frame in HO scale is 0.735". When I finish, my frame will be only 0.030" wider
than the prototype. Basically 0.015" on each side.
You will notice that I have cut a channel in the bottom of the fuel tank weight. This is to help realign the
frame when I splice it. The SDP45 is 5' longer than an SD45. That is 0.689" in HO scale. I need to cut the
frame and splice in 0.689" of additional material. I also thinned the fuel tank weight. The fuel tank weight
now measures 0.855" wide. From Athearn it is 0.902" wide at the bottom. The sides do taper down. So if
you are going to duplicate this model, start your cuts from the bottom and move up.
So before I get to cutting this frame in a few choice places, lets get some needed information together.
According to the following web site http://www.trainweb.org/utahrails/drgw/locolength.html I got the
following locomotive length information.
- SD45 Bolster Centers are 40' (5.511" in HO)
- Athern Bolster Centers are 5.500". A difference of 0.011". I think we can all live comfortably with that.
- SDP45 Bolster Centers are 45'. Kind of figured that since the locomotive is exactly 5' longer than a
standard SD45
Knowing how close Athearn came to being dead on for the SD45. I am very comfortable using the frame
and splicing the bolster centers 5' further apart.
Here you see the location of the additional 5' in the hood.
Athearn SD45 frame to be used
for the SDP45
for the SDP45
No turning back now. As you can see the frame has been cut into three pieces. Prior to making these
cuts, I measured the length of the fuel tank weight. It measured 2.041" long. I know I need to add 0.689"
which makes the total length of the fuel tank weight 2.730" long. After making the cut, I milled the faces
square.
OK, so I have three pieces here. I know the total splice block length is 2.730" long, but how do I know
how much filler material goes between each piece. Going from left to right, we have the rear frame piece,
then the middle motor mount and then the front frame piece. My rear frame fuel tank weight measures
0.538" long. The motor mount piece measures 0.990" long and the front frame fuel tank weight measures
0.469" long. Total length for these pieces is 1.997". Looks like I removed 0.044" worth of material. So my
total new length for the SDP45 is 2.730" subtract 1.997" and I need to fill in 0.733" worth of material. I'll
split that up on either side of the motor mount piece.
cuts, I measured the length of the fuel tank weight. It measured 2.041" long. I know I need to add 0.689"
which makes the total length of the fuel tank weight 2.730" long. After making the cut, I milled the faces
square.
OK, so I have three pieces here. I know the total splice block length is 2.730" long, but how do I know
how much filler material goes between each piece. Going from left to right, we have the rear frame piece,
then the middle motor mount and then the front frame piece. My rear frame fuel tank weight measures
0.538" long. The motor mount piece measures 0.990" long and the front frame fuel tank weight measures
0.469" long. Total length for these pieces is 1.997". Looks like I removed 0.044" worth of material. So my
total new length for the SDP45 is 2.730" subtract 1.997" and I need to fill in 0.733" worth of material. I'll
split that up on either side of the motor mount piece.
Now I need to make the splice block that will lengthen the frame. I know the total length needs to be
2.730". The width needs to be the same as what I trimmed the fuel tank weight to. What you see in black
above will be removed. You can see the scribed lines that I will cut to. Once all the black is cut out, I will
trim the edges to fit inside the channel I cut earlier. You can see this channel in the first SDP45 frame
photo.
2.730". The width needs to be the same as what I trimmed the fuel tank weight to. What you see in black
above will be removed. You can see the scribed lines that I will cut to. Once all the black is cut out, I will
trim the edges to fit inside the channel I cut earlier. You can see this channel in the first SDP45 frame
photo.
Here I have the frame all spliced and rebuilt. I apologize that I forgot to photograph the splice block. I had
already spread JB Weld all over the joints before I remembered that I forgot. You can get an idea though
of how it all fits back together. You can see how the block fits inside the channel and how the frame and
splice block interlock. I JB Welded it all back together and clamped it in a vice. I let it cure overnight and
then drilled and tapped it for a 2-56 machine screw and JB Welded the screw in place as well. I then
trimmed the bottom and the inside of the motor mount area. I also cleaned up the ends and sides and
then milled out the motor mount holes.
I have some more machining to do on the frame, but I have to wait till I get the walkway deck designed. I
have a specific way I want to attach the frame to the walkway deck. I first need to design the fuel tank.
OK, now that I have done all this work I come to find out that the bolster spacing on the Athearn SD50 is
almost dead on. It is VERY close. For my next SDP45, I will use the Athean SD50 frame.
already spread JB Weld all over the joints before I remembered that I forgot. You can get an idea though
of how it all fits back together. You can see how the block fits inside the channel and how the frame and
splice block interlock. I JB Welded it all back together and clamped it in a vice. I let it cure overnight and
then drilled and tapped it for a 2-56 machine screw and JB Welded the screw in place as well. I then
trimmed the bottom and the inside of the motor mount area. I also cleaned up the ends and sides and
then milled out the motor mount holes.
I have some more machining to do on the frame, but I have to wait till I get the walkway deck designed. I
have a specific way I want to attach the frame to the walkway deck. I first need to design the fuel tank.
OK, now that I have done all this work I come to find out that the bolster spacing on the Athearn SD50 is
almost dead on. It is VERY close. For my next SDP45, I will use the Athean SD50 frame.
SDP45 Aluminum Splice Block
SDP45 Frame Spliced
Now is that a whopper of a fuel tank or what!!!!!!! I think I could commute to work and back for about three
years on that much fuel. Maybe more.
Remember I said I would probably have my SDP45 fuel tank custom cut. Well here it is.
years on that much fuel. Maybe more.
Remember I said I would probably have my SDP45 fuel tank custom cut. Well here it is.
I designed this tank to match the height of the Athearn tank so that it would fit the frame properly and
have teh correct height off the rail. I then added the curved bottom, the top sheet and the breather
blocks. I need to cut the frame cavity out and also add the end sheets as well as all the detail parts.
I had three of these tanks made and while I was at it, I had three SD40A tanks made. The only difference
between the SDP45 tank and the SD40A tanks is the SD40A tanks have a round fuel gauge in the side.
Use your browsers back button to return to the SD45-2/ SDP45 index page.
have teh correct height off the rail. I then added the curved bottom, the top sheet and the breather
blocks. I need to cut the frame cavity out and also add the end sheets as well as all the detail parts.
I had three of these tanks made and while I was at it, I had three SD40A tanks made. The only difference
between the SDP45 tank and the SD40A tanks is the SD40A tanks have a round fuel gauge in the side.
Use your browsers back button to return to the SD45-2/ SDP45 index page.