Classic EMD's, Page 8
| WEATHERING |
Pictured above is pretty much all my weathering supplies. In the foreground are my Mig production
pigments. Behind that is a bottle of acrylic resin for textured effects, next to that is linseed oil for
making glossy oil and fuel spills. To the right and behind the linseed oil are my artist oils in the
larger tubes and the smaller tubes are gouache acrylics. To the right of these I have Terpenoid and
oderless thinner and behind that I have Windex for thinning the gouache. I have a small assortment
of brushes, a couple pencil erasers, a mixing tray and a piece of glass. Index cards are a good thing
to have also. Use these to put your artist oils on to soak up some of the oil. Also some toothpicks
are good to have for applying small dots of color that will be washed down.
Before I go any further, I want to thank my friend Perry Lambert for telling me about gouache and
using Windex to thin it.
The weathering stages are difficult for me to photograph, but I will do my best to document it here.
For this article, the weathering processes will be fairly the same for all three models. So unless I do
something different, this is the portion for weathering all three models.
I always start weathering from the bottom up starting with the wheels and gear cases. Also, except
for the gear cases, I start weathering over the gloss coat.
pigments. Behind that is a bottle of acrylic resin for textured effects, next to that is linseed oil for
making glossy oil and fuel spills. To the right and behind the linseed oil are my artist oils in the
larger tubes and the smaller tubes are gouache acrylics. To the right of these I have Terpenoid and
oderless thinner and behind that I have Windex for thinning the gouache. I have a small assortment
of brushes, a couple pencil erasers, a mixing tray and a piece of glass. Index cards are a good thing
to have also. Use these to put your artist oils on to soak up some of the oil. Also some toothpicks
are good to have for applying small dots of color that will be washed down.
Before I go any further, I want to thank my friend Perry Lambert for telling me about gouache and
using Windex to thin it.
The weathering stages are difficult for me to photograph, but I will do my best to document it here.
For this article, the weathering processes will be fairly the same for all three models. So unless I do
something different, this is the portion for weathering all three models.
I always start weathering from the bottom up starting with the wheels and gear cases. Also, except
for the gear cases, I start weathering over the gloss coat.
As you can see from the photos above, the trucks/frame/fuel tank are done. The weathering
process was done with many layers of wash, dry brushing, texturing and pigments. I used both an
acrylic wash and an oil wash. I would set in pigments at times while the wash was still wet. I also
made a wash from the pigments. The ends of the fuel tank are textured using Tamiya putty thinned
with MEK. The texture gives the look of years of grime build up (dirt-oil-water-and whatever else
would kick up on the tank ends). There were times when I did not like the shade of the wash so I
just applied a different wash. What you see all started out black and with wash after wash, the detail
and features were enhanced. I also used artist oils in a dry brush method to give darker splotches
and lighter splotches here and there. The lubricant spill on the fuel tank was done using artist oil
black thinned with linseed oil. It does take a long time for hat to dry. I then lightly brushed it down to
give parts of it a more mat finish.
From the photo I have, the subject prototype is VERY dusty. I used a light gray wash to get the light
color and then went over it with a copper dust pigment. On the back side of the tank I have some oil
drips as well.
The splotches of gray on the right side of the tank were done by mixing artist oils to get the color
and then dabbing the tank. I then used some light gray pigment and brushed over the splotches. I
find this method works very well with pigments. For the tank ends I painted a very light coat of full
strength (not thinned) gouache over the entire textured surface. I then used pigments and brushed
them into the gouache. This can only be done with extremely thin coats of oils or acrylics otherwise
the pigment will clump and not give you that dusty look.
process was done with many layers of wash, dry brushing, texturing and pigments. I used both an
acrylic wash and an oil wash. I would set in pigments at times while the wash was still wet. I also
made a wash from the pigments. The ends of the fuel tank are textured using Tamiya putty thinned
with MEK. The texture gives the look of years of grime build up (dirt-oil-water-and whatever else
would kick up on the tank ends). There were times when I did not like the shade of the wash so I
just applied a different wash. What you see all started out black and with wash after wash, the detail
and features were enhanced. I also used artist oils in a dry brush method to give darker splotches
and lighter splotches here and there. The lubricant spill on the fuel tank was done using artist oil
black thinned with linseed oil. It does take a long time for hat to dry. I then lightly brushed it down to
give parts of it a more mat finish.
From the photo I have, the subject prototype is VERY dusty. I used a light gray wash to get the light
color and then went over it with a copper dust pigment. On the back side of the tank I have some oil
drips as well.
The splotches of gray on the right side of the tank were done by mixing artist oils to get the color
and then dabbing the tank. I then used some light gray pigment and brushed over the splotches. I
find this method works very well with pigments. For the tank ends I painted a very light coat of full
strength (not thinned) gouache over the entire textured surface. I then used pigments and brushed
them into the gouache. This can only be done with extremely thin coats of oils or acrylics otherwise
the pigment will clump and not give you that dusty look.