Classic EMD's, Page 6
Except for the number boards, windshield wipers and handrails/ stanchions, I now have everything
in its base coat with a gloss over it. You can see in these photos how the grills are still darkened. I
did not directly spray the red into them. I just dusted over them to get the high points.
in its base coat with a gloss over it. You can see in these photos how the grills are still darkened. I
did not directly spray the red into them. I just dusted over them to get the high points.
Front view showing some more chipped paint. I added the heavily abused worn paint area on the
right battery box where crews feet would kick or rub up against.
right battery box where crews feet would kick or rub up against.
Not a whole lot to explain here. Just showing the model in its coat of red with chips and peeled
paint. The model is now ready for decals.
paint. The model is now ready for decals.
The fans are not glued in yet, I just wanted to show how they looked. I used the same hair spray
method of removing paint. I painted just the blades with hair spray. I then shot the red and let it dry
for a few hours. To loosen the hair spray, I soaked the fans in warm water for a few minutes and
then with an upward motion from the bottom of the blade I used a small stiff bristle brush and
removed the paint to leave only splotches of it in place. Once weathered, these splotches will
blend in with the fan blades for a wind worn paint look.
method of removing paint. I painted just the blades with hair spray. I then shot the red and let it dry
for a few hours. To loosen the hair spray, I soaked the fans in warm water for a few minutes and
then with an upward motion from the bottom of the blade I used a small stiff bristle brush and
removed the paint to leave only splotches of it in place. Once weathered, these splotches will
blend in with the fan blades for a wind worn paint look.
Your going to notice something in this photo if you compare it to any other photos of the nose
painted. The chipping is not the same. To make a long story short, When I was applying the chevron
strips to the nose, I screwed up trice. Meaning I ripped the nose off twice. The third time I threw the
decals away and painted the nose white, masked it with bare metal foil, shot the blue, masked that
and shot the red. I removed the red from inside the marker lights because I do not like shiny MV
lenses for marker lights. I remove the silver backing and want a subdued clear look to them.
painted. The chipping is not the same. To make a long story short, When I was applying the chevron
strips to the nose, I screwed up trice. Meaning I ripped the nose off twice. The third time I threw the
decals away and painted the nose white, masked it with bare metal foil, shot the blue, masked that
and shot the red. I removed the red from inside the marker lights because I do not like shiny MV
lenses for marker lights. I remove the silver backing and want a subdued clear look to them.
Just showing the striping on the back. Done the same way as the front, but instead of having to
remove the long hood end and replacing it with a new one, I simply grit blast all the red off, painted
it white, masked it and shot a new coat of red. I did the same thing to the marker lights here as I did
on the nose.
remove the long hood end and replacing it with a new one, I simply grit blast all the red off, painted
it white, masked it and shot a new coat of red. I did the same thing to the marker lights here as I did
on the nose.
This I am very excited to show. For the longest time I have been trying to figure out how to
successfully represent the chipped and rubbed off paint on the hand rails. I first grit blasted the
hand rails to give them "tooth". I then painted the ends a steel gray color. I did not use a metallic
color because the metal is really not metallic looking. It is a dull gray. I let that all dry for about a
month. I say a month, because I moved on to working other parts of the model. I then painted a coat
of hair spray over just the end rails or any part that I wanted to ship. I let that dry for a few minutes
and then shot the white. I let the paint dry for about an hour. I then soaked the parts in warm water
for a minute or so and attacked it with a small stiff round bristle brush. The results are what you see
above. The front left hand rails had the most wear and tear on them. The other handrails got the
same treatment, but not as much as the front left.
I can say with confidence I got the exact look I was hoping for.
These are stock Kato hand rails and stanchions. Yes, I know why didn't I drill them out and use
brass wire. My preference and I did not feel the need to. It would have just prolonged finishing the
model. What you will see added to them though is on the inside stanchions I made a representation
of the stanchion base. It is simply sheet styrene cut to shape and glued around it. I do not know why
Kato decided to float the stanchions, but it looked ugly and I wanted a base.
I'll be doing the hairspray method again to certain areas before I shoot the red on. Not much, but
there are some key areas that are heavily worn.
successfully represent the chipped and rubbed off paint on the hand rails. I first grit blasted the
hand rails to give them "tooth". I then painted the ends a steel gray color. I did not use a metallic
color because the metal is really not metallic looking. It is a dull gray. I let that all dry for about a
month. I say a month, because I moved on to working other parts of the model. I then painted a coat
of hair spray over just the end rails or any part that I wanted to ship. I let that dry for a few minutes
and then shot the white. I let the paint dry for about an hour. I then soaked the parts in warm water
for a minute or so and attacked it with a small stiff round bristle brush. The results are what you see
above. The front left hand rails had the most wear and tear on them. The other handrails got the
same treatment, but not as much as the front left.
I can say with confidence I got the exact look I was hoping for.
These are stock Kato hand rails and stanchions. Yes, I know why didn't I drill them out and use
brass wire. My preference and I did not feel the need to. It would have just prolonged finishing the
model. What you will see added to them though is on the inside stanchions I made a representation
of the stanchion base. It is simply sheet styrene cut to shape and glued around it. I do not know why
Kato decided to float the stanchions, but it looked ugly and I wanted a base.
I'll be doing the hairspray method again to certain areas before I shoot the red on. Not much, but
there are some key areas that are heavily worn.