Classic EMD's, Page 5
| PAINTING BEGINS |
With the construction and detail work done, I can now turn my attention to the paint work. As you
can see in the previous pages, I have already put a coat of primer gray on everything. I have
already painted the trucks frame and fuel tank black. I used Floquil Engine Black.
can see in the previous pages, I have already put a coat of primer gray on everything. I have
already painted the trucks frame and fuel tank black. I used Floquil Engine Black.
As you can see on the cover page, the ex CNJ SD40 that I am modeling is the "Red Baron" or
otherwise known as the "Coast Guard" scheme. This unit started its life in B&O blue. From phots, I
can see areas of the red that have peeled off. In preparation for the red, I want to also represent
the areas of peeled paint. I used some Poly Scale B&O Royal Blue and painted some patches.
otherwise known as the "Coast Guard" scheme. This unit started its life in B&O blue. From phots, I
can see areas of the red that have peeled off. In preparation for the red, I want to also represent
the areas of peeled paint. I used some Poly Scale B&O Royal Blue and painted some patches.
I will let these patches of blue dry for a couple days and prior to shooting the red I will mask them
using the salt mask method. Before that though, I will paint the white on the side sill and bottom
step edge.
I know I will probably catch some flak from B&O purists for using Poly Scale blue, but by the time
this model is done, even if I used a true B&O blue it would not look like it.
using the salt mask method. Before that though, I will paint the white on the side sill and bottom
step edge.
I know I will probably catch some flak from B&O purists for using Poly Scale blue, but by the time
this model is done, even if I used a true B&O blue it would not look like it.
I have designed a new tool again. I have never been able to center drill the head light holes.
Usually I plug them with styrene rod and then drill them out for the light bulb. To help me drill them
out on center I designed another simple tool. I turned a piece of brass rod to the diameter of the
inside of the Detail Associates light housing I was using. That diameter is 0.079". I made it a snug fit.
I then drill down the center of the tool a 0.020" diameter hole. This will serve as my pilot hole. I then
fit the piece into the housing and it serves as a guide to center drill and keep my drill
perpendicular tot eh face of the housing. After the hole is drilled, I then use a 0.052" (#55) drill and
open the hole up for the 1.5v bulbs. Now I will have light bulbs that will be centered in the light
housings. I drill the hole just big enough for a light bulb to fit snug inside.
If you're looking at the feature on the door face, I will cover what that is soon.
Usually I plug them with styrene rod and then drill them out for the light bulb. To help me drill them
out on center I designed another simple tool. I turned a piece of brass rod to the diameter of the
inside of the Detail Associates light housing I was using. That diameter is 0.079". I made it a snug fit.
I then drill down the center of the tool a 0.020" diameter hole. This will serve as my pilot hole. I then
fit the piece into the housing and it serves as a guide to center drill and keep my drill
perpendicular tot eh face of the housing. After the hole is drilled, I then use a 0.052" (#55) drill and
open the hole up for the 1.5v bulbs. Now I will have light bulbs that will be centered in the light
housings. I drill the hole just big enough for a light bulb to fit snug inside.
If you're looking at the feature on the door face, I will cover what that is soon.
On the inside of the cab I had to build a tunnel for the light wires to run through. In my mill I
channeled out a piece of styrene strip to allow the wires and light bulbs to pass through. It is not
visible from the outside of the cab unless you really get down and look up into the cab and with the
windows in place, it will be even more difficult to see. Here you can also see I have painted the cab
interior. I used Tamiya XF-21 SKY. It is a creamy green.
I chose to use AMB windows. As you can see in this photo, I cut the cab window mounting tabs off
and glued them in place at the bottom of the cab. This will allow me to still secure the cab to the sub
base and shell in the same manner that Kato intended it to be.
channeled out a piece of styrene strip to allow the wires and light bulbs to pass through. It is not
visible from the outside of the cab unless you really get down and look up into the cab and with the
windows in place, it will be even more difficult to see. Here you can also see I have painted the cab
interior. I used Tamiya XF-21 SKY. It is a creamy green.
I chose to use AMB windows. As you can see in this photo, I cut the cab window mounting tabs off
and glued them in place at the bottom of the cab. This will allow me to still secure the cab to the sub
base and shell in the same manner that Kato intended it to be.
The cab sub base has also been painted. Later I will be building the cab interior, but this is not a
major concern to get done right away. I will be building it right onto the Kato floor.
Again, you can see those patch features on the side of the sub base and again, I will be explaining
those soon. I just need to get the deck painted and you will understand what they are.
major concern to get done right away. I will be building it right onto the Kato floor.
Again, you can see those patch features on the side of the sub base and again, I will be explaining
those soon. I just need to get the deck painted and you will understand what they are.
The base painting of the deck is done and is now ready for decals and weathering. The first coat of
paint as you have seen from previous photos is the gray primer. I used Floquil gray. The next color
is the white on the side sill and bottom step edge. Then I masked the white and added the yellow in
the area of the side sill where the white peeled away. I used Floquil refer white for the sill and
Floquil BNSF yellow for the yellow areas. I then masked the sill and shot the black. I also masked the
deck so I would not get any black up top. Red does not cover dark colors well. I let the black dry for
a couple days and then masked it for the red.
paint as you have seen from previous photos is the gray primer. I used Floquil gray. The next color
is the white on the side sill and bottom step edge. Then I masked the white and added the yellow in
the area of the side sill where the white peeled away. I used Floquil refer white for the sill and
Floquil BNSF yellow for the yellow areas. I then masked the sill and shot the black. I also masked the
deck so I would not get any black up top. Red does not cover dark colors well. I let the black dry for
a couple days and then masked it for the red.
Prior to shooting the red, I wanted to set the deck up for a severely peeled paint effect. The effect
of crews walking over it for many years. To do this I used hair spray. I sprayed a bit into a container
and used a brush to apply it to the deck. I applied two thin coats and let it dry. I then shot Floquil
signal red over the deck. I cleaned my air brush and let the red dry for about an hour. I peeled off
all the masking I did and then using a small stiff paint brush (bristles are short and stiff), I ran the
deck under warm water and brushed at it to remove the red. You can see how it look son the front
deck int eh photo above. I also did this along the hood sides and rear deck. I let it all dry overnight
and came back and gave the deck a clear gloss coat.
As you can see from the photo on the cover page, this locomotive has a very severe case of soot,
dust, dirt and grim buildup. The red on the deck will become VERY dark by the time the weathering
stages are done. The gray will become very dark as well. The black will become a lighter shade of
gray and the bottom step white edge will become very chipped and worn away. The yellow on the
side sill will blend into the white.
I'll let the gloss coat dry for about a day and then I will apply the decals and the deck will be ready
for weathering. The same time I applied the gloss to the deck, I also applied it to the truck side
frames and to the frame/ fuel tank.
of crews walking over it for many years. To do this I used hair spray. I sprayed a bit into a container
and used a brush to apply it to the deck. I applied two thin coats and let it dry. I then shot Floquil
signal red over the deck. I cleaned my air brush and let the red dry for about an hour. I peeled off
all the masking I did and then using a small stiff paint brush (bristles are short and stiff), I ran the
deck under warm water and brushed at it to remove the red. You can see how it look son the front
deck int eh photo above. I also did this along the hood sides and rear deck. I let it all dry overnight
and came back and gave the deck a clear gloss coat.
As you can see from the photo on the cover page, this locomotive has a very severe case of soot,
dust, dirt and grim buildup. The red on the deck will become VERY dark by the time the weathering
stages are done. The gray will become very dark as well. The black will become a lighter shade of
gray and the bottom step white edge will become very chipped and worn away. The yellow on the
side sill will blend into the white.
I'll let the gloss coat dry for about a day and then I will apply the decals and the deck will be ready
for weathering. The same time I applied the gloss to the deck, I also applied it to the truck side
frames and to the frame/ fuel tank.
With the gloss coat drying, I turned my attention to the hood. I applied a method used a lot by the
military modeling guys called preshading. I darkened the grill areas with Poly Scale B&O blue. I used
an air brush and coated the grill areas. I did this to help assist in weathering later on. As I said
before, red does not cover dark colors well and I will not be spraying a lot of red into these areas.
They will get an overspray of red, but not a heavy solid coat.
military modeling guys called preshading. I darkened the grill areas with Poly Scale B&O blue. I used
an air brush and coated the grill areas. I did this to help assist in weathering later on. As I said
before, red does not cover dark colors well and I will not be spraying a lot of red into these areas.
They will get an overspray of red, but not a heavy solid coat.
As I have already mentioned a couple times, red does not cover dark colors well. I went back over
the areas outside the grills with gray primer and then gave the grills a light dusting of gray to
subdue the shading. The deep recesses are still dark, but the surface areas are light and will allow
the red to contrast sharply with the darker blue. The hood is now ready for a coat of red.
the areas outside the grills with gray primer and then gave the grills a light dusting of gray to
subdue the shading. The deep recesses are still dark, but the surface areas are light and will allow
the red to contrast sharply with the darker blue. The hood is now ready for a coat of red.
At the top of this page I mentioned a feature on the cab door that I would explain later. Now I can
give an explanation of this feature. As I mentioned with the deck top, I used hair spray to give the
effect of severely peeled and worn paint. I did not want to use the hair spray because I would not
have much control over it and I did not want to add to much thickness to the paint along the side
sill. What I used here was bare metal foil. I placed the foil over the areas I wanted to peel and then
used the point of an EXCEL #21 blade and tore the edges away to the pattern I wanted. I have much
more control over the peeled paint pattern this way. I then sprayed light coats of red over the deck
so as to not build up to much of an edge on the red paint when I took the bare metal foil off.
I stated earlier int he paint part of this article that I was going to give the salt mask method a try. I
tested it for this application and found I did not have as much control over the pattern as I thought I
would have. The salt mask has its uses, just not for me on this particular model.
give an explanation of this feature. As I mentioned with the deck top, I used hair spray to give the
effect of severely peeled and worn paint. I did not want to use the hair spray because I would not
have much control over it and I did not want to add to much thickness to the paint along the side
sill. What I used here was bare metal foil. I placed the foil over the areas I wanted to peel and then
used the point of an EXCEL #21 blade and tore the edges away to the pattern I wanted. I have much
more control over the peeled paint pattern this way. I then sprayed light coats of red over the deck
so as to not build up to much of an edge on the red paint when I took the bare metal foil off.
I stated earlier int he paint part of this article that I was going to give the salt mask method a try. I
tested it for this application and found I did not have as much control over the pattern as I thought I
would have. The salt mask has its uses, just not for me on this particular model.