Classic EMD's, Page 4
This is a short page. On the previous pages I mentioned a couple things I missed while detailing
the model. One I forgot to add and the other was a research oversight. Below are a couple photos
of these additional details I added after I took the photos on pages 1 thru 3.
the model. One I forgot to add and the other was a research oversight. Below are a couple photos
of these additional details I added after I took the photos on pages 1 thru 3.
The first of these oversights is the fact that this EMD has four short stanchions after the blower
duct. I had no idea this was a feature on SD40's. I knew it was a feature on SD45's, but not SD40's
and while getting ready to add the B&O blue undercoat, I noticed that I missed this.
Basically from photos, the blower duct is shorter by about a door. I first drilled a new hole. I lined up
the new hole with the holes already in the narrow part of the deck and also with the hole in the
blower duct. I drilled a shallow hole first. Not all the way through. If you try to drill all the way
through at this point, your drill bit is likely to deflect off the inner end of the blower duct and skew
your hole. I then carefully cut the deck piece off without destroying the tread plate. I needed to
reuse it. I used a micro saw. This is a tool that uses a razor blade with saw teeth. It has very fine
teeth and is very thin. I cleaned up the edges and then capped the blower duct end off with a piece
of 0.010" sheet styrene. Next I thinned the deck plate piece that I cut off to the same thickness of
the side sill that is above the drilled holes for the stanchion. I then trimmed the top of the sill where
the deck piece was cut out down the same thickness as the new deck piece I just made. I then
glued in the deck piece and filled the seam with stretched sprue. After the glue was dry and the
plastic was hard again, I cleaned up the stretched sprue and shaped it a bit to look like tread plate.
Final step was to grit blast it the new deck piece to blend the joints and primer it.
I then needed to take care of the hood. I simple added a piece of 0.020" styrene sheet to make up
the opening in the hood left by cutting out the blower duct. I cleaned up the joint and added a new
step light from Railflyer.
Also in this photo you can see the other feature I added. At the top of the inner step well, I added
the step well overlap of the side sill.
duct. I had no idea this was a feature on SD40's. I knew it was a feature on SD45's, but not SD40's
and while getting ready to add the B&O blue undercoat, I noticed that I missed this.
Basically from photos, the blower duct is shorter by about a door. I first drilled a new hole. I lined up
the new hole with the holes already in the narrow part of the deck and also with the hole in the
blower duct. I drilled a shallow hole first. Not all the way through. If you try to drill all the way
through at this point, your drill bit is likely to deflect off the inner end of the blower duct and skew
your hole. I then carefully cut the deck piece off without destroying the tread plate. I needed to
reuse it. I used a micro saw. This is a tool that uses a razor blade with saw teeth. It has very fine
teeth and is very thin. I cleaned up the edges and then capped the blower duct end off with a piece
of 0.010" sheet styrene. Next I thinned the deck plate piece that I cut off to the same thickness of
the side sill that is above the drilled holes for the stanchion. I then trimmed the top of the sill where
the deck piece was cut out down the same thickness as the new deck piece I just made. I then
glued in the deck piece and filled the seam with stretched sprue. After the glue was dry and the
plastic was hard again, I cleaned up the stretched sprue and shaped it a bit to look like tread plate.
Final step was to grit blast it the new deck piece to blend the joints and primer it.
I then needed to take care of the hood. I simple added a piece of 0.020" styrene sheet to make up
the opening in the hood left by cutting out the blower duct. I cleaned up the joint and added a new
step light from Railflyer.
Also in this photo you can see the other feature I added. At the top of the inner step well, I added
the step well overlap of the side sill.
Showing another angle of the step well overlap of the side sill. I built this with a piece of 0.005"
styrene sheet. I blended the joint to make it look like the overlap was part of the step well sheet.
With all this done, I can NOW get back to the painting and finishing of this model. While getting the
paint work done there will be times when I have to wait for the paint to dry. So instead of sitting
idle, I can get started on the GP30.
styrene sheet. I blended the joint to make it look like the overlap was part of the step well sheet.
With all this done, I can NOW get back to the painting and finishing of this model. While getting the
paint work done there will be times when I have to wait for the paint to dry. So instead of sitting
idle, I can get started on the GP30.