Classic EMD's, Page 2
I've already explained about the horn and antenna, but there is one more feature on the cab roof to
explain. I carved off the lap joint between the cab and the number board. I replaced it with a piece
of 0.005" sheet that I cut to about 0.020" wide. You can see it in the photo above.
I want to take a break here to explain about another product that was brought to my attention. It is
Tamiya liquid cement. This product was mentioned on Andy Harman's DIESEL list. It was not talked
about in depth, but rather sort of hidden in one of the conversations going on. I knew Tamiya made
really good products, but never gave their cement any thought. While at my local hobby shop I
decided to pick up a bottle. I bought the EXTRA THIN cement with the green top. I tested it out and
did not find anything special about it. It definitely was not as strong as the Ambroid Pro Weld that I
use. There are some positives to the Tamiya cement though. The square low profile bottle shape
and the brush is the BEST I have ever seen for a cement. What I do like about this cement though is
that you can glue 0.005" sheet without the sheet melting away like it does if I accidentally use to
much Ambroid. I can accidentally use to much Tamiya cement and the sheet will still retain its
smoothness. I used the Tamiya cement to glue this lap joint strip down as well as the sheet you will
see soon under the DB fans.
Tamiya cement is now a big part of my glue selections. It has its place and I will use it often. When
this jar is done, I will get another one and fill this jar with Ambroid. I am telling you, the brush is the
BEST ever.
Back to the model.
I made a new tool that allows me to mill off the inertial filter hatch and exhaust hatch. It is simply a
block of aluminum that fits up inside the hood to hold the hood securely in place while the mill
cutter removes the parts. The inertial filter hatch and exhaust hatch are replaced with the
appropriate Cannon & Co. parts. The lift rings all along the hood are of the appropriate sizes from
Plano Model Products.
explain. I carved off the lap joint between the cab and the number board. I replaced it with a piece
of 0.005" sheet that I cut to about 0.020" wide. You can see it in the photo above.
I want to take a break here to explain about another product that was brought to my attention. It is
Tamiya liquid cement. This product was mentioned on Andy Harman's DIESEL list. It was not talked
about in depth, but rather sort of hidden in one of the conversations going on. I knew Tamiya made
really good products, but never gave their cement any thought. While at my local hobby shop I
decided to pick up a bottle. I bought the EXTRA THIN cement with the green top. I tested it out and
did not find anything special about it. It definitely was not as strong as the Ambroid Pro Weld that I
use. There are some positives to the Tamiya cement though. The square low profile bottle shape
and the brush is the BEST I have ever seen for a cement. What I do like about this cement though is
that you can glue 0.005" sheet without the sheet melting away like it does if I accidentally use to
much Ambroid. I can accidentally use to much Tamiya cement and the sheet will still retain its
smoothness. I used the Tamiya cement to glue this lap joint strip down as well as the sheet you will
see soon under the DB fans.
Tamiya cement is now a big part of my glue selections. It has its place and I will use it often. When
this jar is done, I will get another one and fill this jar with Ambroid. I am telling you, the brush is the
BEST ever.
Back to the model.
I made a new tool that allows me to mill off the inertial filter hatch and exhaust hatch. It is simply a
block of aluminum that fits up inside the hood to hold the hood securely in place while the mill
cutter removes the parts. The inertial filter hatch and exhaust hatch are replaced with the
appropriate Cannon & Co. parts. The lift rings all along the hood are of the appropriate sizes from
Plano Model Products.
Naturally the fans are from Cannon & Co., but there are a few features on the DB hatch that Kato has
chosen to leave off. One of those features is the thin plate under the DB fans. I used a sheet of
0.005" styrene sheet for this plate. Also I added the lap joint in front of the fans and the two joints
behind the fans.
Again I made a simple tool to help me hold and clean up the Cannon Fans. It is a brass round turned
so that the fan top rings fit perfectly over it. A photo of it can bee seen below. There is a ridge half
way down the part that the ring fits up against. With this tool, I can easily hold the top rings without
them flexing and clean them up.
chosen to leave off. One of those features is the thin plate under the DB fans. I used a sheet of
0.005" styrene sheet for this plate. Also I added the lap joint in front of the fans and the two joints
behind the fans.
Again I made a simple tool to help me hold and clean up the Cannon Fans. It is a brass round turned
so that the fan top rings fit perfectly over it. A photo of it can bee seen below. There is a ridge half
way down the part that the ring fits up against. With this tool, I can easily hold the top rings without
them flexing and clean them up.
Again at the radiator section I have installed Cannon & Co. fans. The fan grab is 0.010" brass wire
set 0.080" (seven scale inches) above the fan hatch. The sand filler hatch is again from Cannon &
Co. I have added the flag holders from Details West and the hood side lift rings from Plano Model
Products. The step light along the bottom of the hood is a Railflyer part.
set 0.080" (seven scale inches) above the fan hatch. The sand filler hatch is again from Cannon &
Co. I have added the flag holders from Details West and the hood side lift rings from Plano Model
Products. The step light along the bottom of the hood is a Railflyer part.
The long hood end is by Cannon & Co. as well as the brake wheel stand. I still have to detail the
stand a little, but it was put in place to show where it fits. I filled the back in and added a brass pin
at the bottom to help better secure it to the deck.
There is a detail I forgot to build up. It should be visible in this photo, but like I said, I forgot it. I
have added it since these photos were taken. The detail is the step well overlap of the side sill. I
added 0.005" sheet to the side sill and then after the glue dried, I trimmed and blended the sheet
into the step well. The detail will be seen when I photograph the model after painting.
stand a little, but it was put in place to show where it fits. I filled the back in and added a brass pin
at the bottom to help better secure it to the deck.
There is a detail I forgot to build up. It should be visible in this photo, but like I said, I forgot it. I
have added it since these photos were taken. The detail is the step well overlap of the side sill. I
added 0.005" sheet to the side sill and then after the glue dried, I trimmed and blended the sheet
into the step well. The detail will be seen when I photograph the model after painting.
The cab door handle is by Precision scale. I have added Cannon & Co. steps. I have also added the
separation seam between the cab electrical compartment and the clean air room. This was done by
simply scribing the line with a sharp #11 blade or #21 Excel blade. The handle on the hood door is
from Intermountain. It is from the F-unit kits. I was not happy with the bumps Kato used for drain
holes so I drilled them out, inserted 0.015" diameter styrene rod and then drilled them out with a
0.0083" bit. This was done for the single drain hole on the other side as well.
separation seam between the cab electrical compartment and the clean air room. This was done by
simply scribing the line with a sharp #11 blade or #21 Excel blade. The handle on the hood door is
from Intermountain. It is from the F-unit kits. I was not happy with the bumps Kato used for drain
holes so I drilled them out, inserted 0.015" diameter styrene rod and then drilled them out with a
0.0083" bit. This was done for the single drain hole on the other side as well.