| C&IM SD38-2 TRUCKS |
Naturally the first thing I do with all my models is completely disassemble them. That means everything. I strip them right down to the frame.
With this project, I started with the trucks and will work my way up the frame to the hood.
So lets start with the wheels. Not much to really say about them. What I need to do though is paint them so I do not have nice shinny wheels to
go with a weathered model. Though the wheels are not a fully exposed behind the side frames, if they are not painted, they will look out of place.
I start by giving the wheel dish a coat of primer. The next step after the primer dries is to put on a coat of artist oil raw sienna. The primer coat
helps the artist oil stick tot he wheel face. As you can see with the raw sienna, it has texture. If you look close at wheels, they have a gritty
appearance. That is from the rust, dust and oil buildup. To create this texture I take some artist oil out of the tube and put it on an index card. The
index card helps to pull some of the oil out of the paint. Then instead of flowing the paint on with the brush, I stipple it on by stabbing at the
wheel face. I let the oil dry for a couple days.
With this project, I started with the trucks and will work my way up the frame to the hood.
So lets start with the wheels. Not much to really say about them. What I need to do though is paint them so I do not have nice shinny wheels to
go with a weathered model. Though the wheels are not a fully exposed behind the side frames, if they are not painted, they will look out of place.
I start by giving the wheel dish a coat of primer. The next step after the primer dries is to put on a coat of artist oil raw sienna. The primer coat
helps the artist oil stick tot he wheel face. As you can see with the raw sienna, it has texture. If you look close at wheels, they have a gritty
appearance. That is from the rust, dust and oil buildup. To create this texture I take some artist oil out of the tube and put it on an index card. The
index card helps to pull some of the oil out of the paint. Then instead of flowing the paint on with the brush, I stipple it on by stabbing at the
wheel face. I let the oil dry for a couple days.
Once the oil drys I can go back and add various colors to grunge up the wheel. Give it that look of use and dirt build up. First step here is to
brush on a coating of either white spirits (mineral spirits), turpentine, oderless thinner or whatever you find works best. Once I can find white
spirits, I will use that. For this model I used turpentine (very smelly stuff). I may try oderless thinner next time as well. The reason for brushing on
the turpentine is to help assist the flow of the oil when it comes time to blend it. After brushing on the turpentine, I then add small dots of color.
Again, I pull the paint out of the tube and put it on an index card. I use a tooth pick to add the dots. The colors I use here are white, black, raw
umber, burnt umber and burnt sienna. I do both sides of the wheel and then let it sit for a minute or so. Then I dip a brush in the turpentine, wipe
it off so it is just damp and then start stabbing at the wheel face to blend the colors. I do this to both sides. It takes a while for the paint to dry and
I still do not like the effect. This step just gives me the foundation for the final step that really brings the wheel face to life.
brush on a coating of either white spirits (mineral spirits), turpentine, oderless thinner or whatever you find works best. Once I can find white
spirits, I will use that. For this model I used turpentine (very smelly stuff). I may try oderless thinner next time as well. The reason for brushing on
the turpentine is to help assist the flow of the oil when it comes time to blend it. After brushing on the turpentine, I then add small dots of color.
Again, I pull the paint out of the tube and put it on an index card. I use a tooth pick to add the dots. The colors I use here are white, black, raw
umber, burnt umber and burnt sienna. I do both sides of the wheel and then let it sit for a minute or so. Then I dip a brush in the turpentine, wipe
it off so it is just damp and then start stabbing at the wheel face to blend the colors. I do this to both sides. It takes a while for the paint to dry and
I still do not like the effect. This step just gives me the foundation for the final step that really brings the wheel face to life.
The final step is the addition of pigments. I prefer to use MIG Production pigments. Miguel is a great guy and one heck of a modeler! You can
find a link to his web site at the bottom of my home page. I highly suggest you read everything you can that he has written about weathering. I
have his full line of pigments and they are great. So my next step is to add the pigments while the oil and turpentine are still "wet". The pigments
blend beautifully with oils as well. I used four pigments on the wheel faces. Those being Industrial City Dirt, Russian Earth, Stardust Rust and
Light Rust. You can choose whatever color you want depending on the color effect you want to attain. Pigments are much better than chalks
and it does not take a lot to achieve what you want. I randomly placed the pigments and then stippled them into the oils. On some wheels I only
used two colors and on others I used all four.
find a link to his web site at the bottom of my home page. I highly suggest you read everything you can that he has written about weathering. I
have his full line of pigments and they are great. So my next step is to add the pigments while the oil and turpentine are still "wet". The pigments
blend beautifully with oils as well. I used four pigments on the wheel faces. Those being Industrial City Dirt, Russian Earth, Stardust Rust and
Light Rust. You can choose whatever color you want depending on the color effect you want to attain. Pigments are much better than chalks
and it does not take a lot to achieve what you want. I randomly placed the pigments and then stippled them into the oils. On some wheels I only
used two colors and on others I used all four.
Above you can see all six wheels and how some are lighter than others.
Some have a brighter rust effect and some are just crusty brown. If you
want to add a wet oily effect, you can use Linseed oil. Use it sparingly
and build up your effect. I wanted all my wheels to be dry and crusty. To
the left is a nice close up and you can see the rough looking texture.
Now that the wheels are done, I can start working on the truck side
frames. The base model I am using is the nicely rendered Kato SD38-2.
The only real issue I have with it is the weak looking side frames. They
are just to flat and lifeless. Knowing that there is a much better rendered
HT-C side frame out there, that naturally being the Athearn version, I had
to find a way to adapt it to the Kato gear case. I followed Dave Hussey's
lead. As seen in the photo below, I trenched out the back of the Athearn
side frame to allow the power pickup strip to sit into the frame. The
process for doing this was made so much easier because have a mill.
First off I needed to be able to locate the center of the axles on the side
frames axle journals. I need to be able to center the power pickup strip
on the axle journal centers. From the outside of the frame a drilled a very
small hole through the center of the axle journal. This is easy because
the journal cover already has a nice centered recess. I used a #82 drill
bit. I was not worried about a hole being there. It is so small and once all
is put together, it is unnoticeable. Next, I measured the axle tip which is
0.059". From the inside of the side frame using the small hole I drill as a
guide, I drill a blind hole just deep enough so the wheel face backed up
against the side frame. I used a 1/16" drill bit for this. Now why didn't I
Some have a brighter rust effect and some are just crusty brown. If you
want to add a wet oily effect, you can use Linseed oil. Use it sparingly
and build up your effect. I wanted all my wheels to be dry and crusty. To
the left is a nice close up and you can see the rough looking texture.
Now that the wheels are done, I can start working on the truck side
frames. The base model I am using is the nicely rendered Kato SD38-2.
The only real issue I have with it is the weak looking side frames. They
are just to flat and lifeless. Knowing that there is a much better rendered
HT-C side frame out there, that naturally being the Athearn version, I had
to find a way to adapt it to the Kato gear case. I followed Dave Hussey's
lead. As seen in the photo below, I trenched out the back of the Athearn
side frame to allow the power pickup strip to sit into the frame. The
process for doing this was made so much easier because have a mill.
First off I needed to be able to locate the center of the axles on the side
frames axle journals. I need to be able to center the power pickup strip
on the axle journal centers. From the outside of the frame a drilled a very
small hole through the center of the axle journal. This is easy because
the journal cover already has a nice centered recess. I used a #82 drill
bit. I was not worried about a hole being there. It is so small and once all
is put together, it is unnoticeable. Next, I measured the axle tip which is
0.059". From the inside of the side frame using the small hole I drill as a
guide, I drill a blind hole just deep enough so the wheel face backed up
against the side frame. I used a 1/16" drill bit for this. Now why didn't I
use a #53 drill bit. Because I can get 0.060 diameter styrene rod to use as a guide to hold the power pickup strip in place. Through the outside
axle holes in the power pickup strip I slipped the 0.060" rod through. It is a tight fit which is good. There is no need to locate the center hole with
the rod. In order to get the power pickup strip to fit flat against the back of the side frame, I had to trim just a smidgen off one of the brake
adjuster supports. In the photo above, it is the brake adjuster support toward the front of the side frame. You can see it just below the white tab.
With the brake adjuster support trimmed and the power pickup strip flat against the back of the side frame, the power pickup strip axle crowns fit
nicely into the recesses behind the axle journals. I used a #11 blade and traced the outline of the power pickup strip. Now I know where to cut.
The depth of the cut is the same as the thickness of the power pickup strip. I mounted the side frame in my mill and used a 1/16" three flute
cutter, set the depth and methodically followed my traced outline. Athearn plastic cut like a hot knife through butter. It is a joy to work with. I wish
all manufacturers would use this same plastic for their side frames. But then again, Athearns side frames are the only ones that should be
used. They should become standard throughout the industry.
axle holes in the power pickup strip I slipped the 0.060" rod through. It is a tight fit which is good. There is no need to locate the center hole with
the rod. In order to get the power pickup strip to fit flat against the back of the side frame, I had to trim just a smidgen off one of the brake
adjuster supports. In the photo above, it is the brake adjuster support toward the front of the side frame. You can see it just below the white tab.
With the brake adjuster support trimmed and the power pickup strip flat against the back of the side frame, the power pickup strip axle crowns fit
nicely into the recesses behind the axle journals. I used a #11 blade and traced the outline of the power pickup strip. Now I know where to cut.
The depth of the cut is the same as the thickness of the power pickup strip. I mounted the side frame in my mill and used a 1/16" three flute
cutter, set the depth and methodically followed my traced outline. Athearn plastic cut like a hot knife through butter. It is a joy to work with. I wish
all manufacturers would use this same plastic for their side frames. But then again, Athearns side frames are the only ones that should be
used. They should become standard throughout the industry.
Next task was to build the new mounting pins. This is where I differed from Dave's methodology. He soldered brass pins to his power pickup
strips. I opted to make mine from styrene and glue them to the back of the side frame. I measured the pins from the Kato side frame and then
added the depth of the cut. I inserted them into the gear case and marked where I needed to make the locking hole and then cut them out. To
mount the pins correctly into the side frame, I installed the power pickup strip and glued them through the holes. After they were dry I carefully
removed the power pickup strip and applied more cement to the joint.
In the photo above, you can also see the added bolt head details to the journal keepers.
strips. I opted to make mine from styrene and glue them to the back of the side frame. I measured the pins from the Kato side frame and then
added the depth of the cut. I inserted them into the gear case and marked where I needed to make the locking hole and then cut them out. To
mount the pins correctly into the side frame, I installed the power pickup strip and glued them through the holes. After they were dry I carefully
removed the power pickup strip and applied more cement to the joint.
In the photo above, you can also see the added bolt head details to the journal keepers.
Here yo can see the power pickup strip embedded in the side frame. Before I forget, I need to warn you of an impending trap. I drilled the holes
to allow the axle tips to fit into the frame on center with the axle journals. Nothing wrong with that at all. What is going to happen though is when I
install the shock absorber snubber on the center axle and also any speed recorders, these are going to interfere with the axle tips. Just know
that you are going to have to trim the pins for these details very short. The nice thing about this also is the Athearn side frames fit perfectly onto
the Kato gear case and two depth gages built into the top of the Athearn side frame but up against the Kato gear case perfectly. No need for
trimming.
There is something you do have to trim though to get the new assembly to swivel properly in the Kato frame. The Athearn side frames are just a
tad longer than the Kato side frames. I had to remove about 0.030" off the leading edge of each side frame in order for it to clear the step well.
This is really no big deal and it is in no way noticeable.
to allow the axle tips to fit into the frame on center with the axle journals. Nothing wrong with that at all. What is going to happen though is when I
install the shock absorber snubber on the center axle and also any speed recorders, these are going to interfere with the axle tips. Just know
that you are going to have to trim the pins for these details very short. The nice thing about this also is the Athearn side frames fit perfectly onto
the Kato gear case and two depth gages built into the top of the Athearn side frame but up against the Kato gear case perfectly. No need for
trimming.
There is something you do have to trim though to get the new assembly to swivel properly in the Kato frame. The Athearn side frames are just a
tad longer than the Kato side frames. I had to remove about 0.030" off the leading edge of each side frame in order for it to clear the step well.
This is really no big deal and it is in no way noticeable.
Now I will show you the detail on an assembled truck. This is of course the lead truck. You will notice this by the speed recorder and the wheel
slip indicator. I have grit blasted the assembly of both trucks. I want to add here also that the Athearn HT-C brake cylinders are the best
rendered in the industry. They have the correct shape, size and detail. I used 0.012" brass wire for the brake line. It does not show in the photo,
but the wire is properly bent. I used the bending template found in the September 1984 issue of Mainline Modeler. The rear journal has a
Details West speed recorder installed and after paint will get a piece of wire stuck in it. The lead journal has a Details West speed recorder
device used as a wheel slip indicator installed. It will also get a piece of wire stuck in it after paint. The speed recorder will get a 0.023" diameter
piece of wire and the wheel slip indicator will get a 0.019" piece of wire. I got the 0.023" wire from a Miniatronics 1.5v buld. Keep the insulation
on and I got the 0.019" wire from the Details Associates speed recorder kit. If you look at the outside ends of the frame you will see I have
installed some bent wire hooks for the sanding hoses. These are the formed wire from Details Associates.
slip indicator. I have grit blasted the assembly of both trucks. I want to add here also that the Athearn HT-C brake cylinders are the best
rendered in the industry. They have the correct shape, size and detail. I used 0.012" brass wire for the brake line. It does not show in the photo,
but the wire is properly bent. I used the bending template found in the September 1984 issue of Mainline Modeler. The rear journal has a
Details West speed recorder installed and after paint will get a piece of wire stuck in it. The lead journal has a Details West speed recorder
device used as a wheel slip indicator installed. It will also get a piece of wire stuck in it after paint. The speed recorder will get a 0.023" diameter
piece of wire and the wheel slip indicator will get a 0.019" piece of wire. I got the 0.023" wire from a Miniatronics 1.5v buld. Keep the insulation
on and I got the 0.019" wire from the Details Associates speed recorder kit. If you look at the outside ends of the frame you will see I have
installed some bent wire hooks for the sanding hoses. These are the formed wire from Details Associates.
Same truck of course, but showing from the rear. You will of course notice the traction motor detail as well as the TM hanger bracket. Both these
parts I custom made myself and had St. Charles Model Works cast them. I will tell you though. If you want these parts, start bugging Details
West. They currently own them and have them in their possession. Getting the parts to fit is VERY easy. If you look at the previous photos
showing the rear of the side frame, you will notice a white pin sticking out the rear where the side frame curves in. I drilled a hole in the TM
hanger bracket and it is a nice press fit. No need for glue. You will also notice I drilled a frame hole in the rear of the side frame where it curves.
The TM just fits flat up against the back of the gear case. I just kept trimming the gear case till it all fit perfectly. The bottom gear case cover back
end is trimmed to fit inside the TM detail.
parts I custom made myself and had St. Charles Model Works cast them. I will tell you though. If you want these parts, start bugging Details
West. They currently own them and have them in their possession. Getting the parts to fit is VERY easy. If you look at the previous photos
showing the rear of the side frame, you will notice a white pin sticking out the rear where the side frame curves in. I drilled a hole in the TM
hanger bracket and it is a nice press fit. No need for glue. You will also notice I drilled a frame hole in the rear of the side frame where it curves.
The TM just fits flat up against the back of the gear case. I just kept trimming the gear case till it all fit perfectly. The bottom gear case cover back
end is trimmed to fit inside the TM detail.
Here you can see the back end of the TM detail. Also in this photo you can now see the properly bent brake cylinder air lines. I worked up a very
easy method for bending these line. It is very difficult to explain and much easier to show. So if you see me at an RPM meet, ask me and I will go
through the steps.
easy method for bending these line. It is very difficult to explain and much easier to show. So if you see me at an RPM meet, ask me and I will go
through the steps.
Nothing special about these two views. Just showing the other side. With the detail work done and all the parts grit blasted, I can now paint the
trucks. BTW, I had to order new gears for these trucks. Apparently Kato does not want you to take the gears out because it is down right bloody
hard to get them out without gouging the teeth. The gear case is one piece so you have to spread t to release the gears. The bottom most gears
come out easy, but the idler gears and the tower gear is a royal pain.
trucks. BTW, I had to order new gears for these trucks. Apparently Kato does not want you to take the gears out because it is down right bloody
hard to get them out without gouging the teeth. The gear case is one piece so you have to spread t to release the gears. The bottom most gears
come out easy, but the idler gears and the tower gear is a royal pain.
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