| CHAPTER 2 WALKWAY DECK, PILOTS & HOOD |
Here we are looking at the underside of the hood. Of course you can see the air reservoirs
and associated plumbing. That is all pretty standard. What I want to show you in this photo are
the tabs I mentioned in Chapter 1. I have marked the tabs with the letter "A". They are the
same on the opposite side. These tabs are 0.030" x 0.125" strip styrene. When the built up
hood sides are assembled and then set into place on the deck, these tabs really help to line
everything up. Especially against the back cab wall.
and associated plumbing. That is all pretty standard. What I want to show you in this photo are
the tabs I mentioned in Chapter 1. I have marked the tabs with the letter "A". They are the
same on the opposite side. These tabs are 0.030" x 0.125" strip styrene. When the built up
hood sides are assembled and then set into place on the deck, these tabs really help to line
everything up. Especially against the back cab wall.
A
| A |
A
Here is a view showing the plumbing to teh Details West air filter sets. I did not have a close up
of this setup and could only go by what the DW instruction sheet had setup for plumbing. I just
know they hung in this type of cluster and they were both of the larger type air filters instead
of the one large and one small. Also I added a Precision Scale air shut off valve just in front of
the air reservoir.
of this setup and could only go by what the DW instruction sheet had setup for plumbing. I just
know they hung in this type of cluster and they were both of the larger type air filters instead
of the one large and one small. Also I added a Precision Scale air shut off valve just in front of
the air reservoir.
For this model I simplified the under frame detail work, so there was not a lot to do. Basically I
touched on the major visual features. With all that done, I can now turn my attention to the
pilots, and all that goes on above the sill. The front and rear pilot details are almost the same.
The difference is the rock plow. The rear is a smaller version. Both are Details West parts.
The MU hoses and train line hose are also Details West. The coupler lift bar brackets are from
Details Associates and I made my own coupler lift bar assembly from brass wire. It is made in
three pieces. Two outer "L" shaped pieces and the center lift pin loop. I lost one of the drop
steps so I used the drop steps from Details Associates. To get them to fit properly, I had to fill
the notch first with a piece of 0.010" x 0.080" strip styrene. This fills in the notch that the Atlas
drop step fits into. Then when I glued the DA step bracket in place, I made sure to nicely line
up the bottom angle with the angle cast into the pilot.
Another small detail I added was the small kick plate on the right side of the walkway extension
over the pilot. This was a piece of 0.010" x 0.020" strip styrene.
OK, remember in Chapter 1 I mentioned that the Atlas battery boxes were longer than the
Cannon & Co. Battery box and that it only shows up or rather is a problem on the right side. In
teh photo above you can see where I had to add a filler piece to the deck to fill the hole left
from cutting off the Atlas sub base. This is very easy to fix. I used a piece of 0.040" x 0.060"
styrene strip to fill it in. I used a tad more liquid cement than needed so it would ooze the
plastic and fill the seams. Then after it all dried I scrapped it clean.
If you are keen on Chessie GP40's and GP40-2's with Rock plows, then you will see a
compromise I made. I was not about to build new had rails so I notched the corner of the rock
plow to allow the mounting of the stock Atlas hand rail. Sorry, this is a quick build and it would
have taken me forever to redo all that. Mind you, I did give it an attempt. One that did not
result in a satisfactory outcome, so I made the command decision on the compromise.
touched on the major visual features. With all that done, I can now turn my attention to the
pilots, and all that goes on above the sill. The front and rear pilot details are almost the same.
The difference is the rock plow. The rear is a smaller version. Both are Details West parts.
The MU hoses and train line hose are also Details West. The coupler lift bar brackets are from
Details Associates and I made my own coupler lift bar assembly from brass wire. It is made in
three pieces. Two outer "L" shaped pieces and the center lift pin loop. I lost one of the drop
steps so I used the drop steps from Details Associates. To get them to fit properly, I had to fill
the notch first with a piece of 0.010" x 0.080" strip styrene. This fills in the notch that the Atlas
drop step fits into. Then when I glued the DA step bracket in place, I made sure to nicely line
up the bottom angle with the angle cast into the pilot.
Another small detail I added was the small kick plate on the right side of the walkway extension
over the pilot. This was a piece of 0.010" x 0.020" strip styrene.
OK, remember in Chapter 1 I mentioned that the Atlas battery boxes were longer than the
Cannon & Co. Battery box and that it only shows up or rather is a problem on the right side. In
teh photo above you can see where I had to add a filler piece to the deck to fill the hole left
from cutting off the Atlas sub base. This is very easy to fix. I used a piece of 0.040" x 0.060"
styrene strip to fill it in. I used a tad more liquid cement than needed so it would ooze the
plastic and fill the seams. Then after it all dried I scrapped it clean.
If you are keen on Chessie GP40's and GP40-2's with Rock plows, then you will see a
compromise I made. I was not about to build new had rails so I notched the corner of the rock
plow to allow the mounting of the stock Atlas hand rail. Sorry, this is a quick build and it would
have taken me forever to redo all that. Mind you, I did give it an attempt. One that did not
result in a satisfactory outcome, so I made the command decision on the compromise.
Here you see the use of a Railflyer Model Prototypes cab step. I like them because they have
the proper step fold in the front. Not very visible, but I like it. What had happened though was
after building the cab sub base and installing them on the deck, I noticed that the front of the
step guard was sort of not sitting flat on the deck. I carefully cut the step guard off and glued it
back in so it sat correctly. I decided this was a good opportunity to try out the Railflyer steps. I
could have used the Railflyer step guard as well, but I did not because I was able to salvage
teh Cannon & Co. step guard just fine.
the proper step fold in the front. Not very visible, but I like it. What had happened though was
after building the cab sub base and installing them on the deck, I noticed that the front of the
step guard was sort of not sitting flat on the deck. I carefully cut the step guard off and glued it
back in so it sat correctly. I decided this was a good opportunity to try out the Railflyer steps. I
could have used the Railflyer step guard as well, but I did not because I was able to salvage
teh Cannon & Co. step guard just fine.
I wanted to also use the Railflyer steps at the rear of the cab. This time though I was not so
lucky in salvaging the step guard as I was on the front. That is OK because teh step guards
from the Railflyer cab step kit are real nice. I did nto do it on this model, but any subsequent
models I will. To help facilitate gluing on the step guard, I found it would make life much easier
to flue in a small backing strip the rear of the battery box just under the top step. Do not allow
this strip to go all the way down to the deck or you will see it through the small slit under the
foot guard. I suggest this small strip so that you have two good gluing surfaces instead of just
one. I hate single butt joint gluing surfaces. They are not reliable.
Quick note, you do have to trim the Railflyer steps to fit. They are to long to fit between the
hood side and the foot guard. It is easy enough to do. I just use a pair of decal scissors and
trim them down till they fit. I also trim the little tab on the step that fits into the step guard. It is
to long and does not allow the step to fit fully up against the guard. I do not trim the tab all the
way back. Just a small amount.
I must add here. No matter who's steps you use, the procedure of installing the cab steps in
my opinion is probably the hardest thing to do. It is almost impossible to get glue into the joints.
It can be done, but at great pains to get it done cleanly.
lucky in salvaging the step guard as I was on the front. That is OK because teh step guards
from the Railflyer cab step kit are real nice. I did nto do it on this model, but any subsequent
models I will. To help facilitate gluing on the step guard, I found it would make life much easier
to flue in a small backing strip the rear of the battery box just under the top step. Do not allow
this strip to go all the way down to the deck or you will see it through the small slit under the
foot guard. I suggest this small strip so that you have two good gluing surfaces instead of just
one. I hate single butt joint gluing surfaces. They are not reliable.
Quick note, you do have to trim the Railflyer steps to fit. They are to long to fit between the
hood side and the foot guard. It is easy enough to do. I just use a pair of decal scissors and
trim them down till they fit. I also trim the little tab on the step that fits into the step guard. It is
to long and does not allow the step to fit fully up against the guard. I do not trim the tab all the
way back. Just a small amount.
I must add here. No matter who's steps you use, the procedure of installing the cab steps in
my opinion is probably the hardest thing to do. It is almost impossible to get glue into the joints.
It can be done, but at great pains to get it done cleanly.
Here I have a view of the clean air room, right side. Typical GP layout, nothing special. The
weld bead is done by scribing the hood side and then laying in stretched sprue. It is very
difficult to see, but just aft of the top of the door are the three drains. I made these using
Plastruct 0.010" dia. styrene rod. Make note of the cab sun shade. Not that it is there or that it
is a Details Associates part, but that it is a full cab sunshade. The other side has a much
smaller sunshade. I do not know why Chessie bothered with the smaller sunshade on the other
side. It does not appear to be able to shade anything. But I model what I see in photos and
that is the configuration I saw. Here you can also see the use of the Railflyer GP jacking pads
and a Cannon & Co. truck light.
On a side note, I really commend Chris for producing these GP jacking pads. They are very
nicely done and we have been needing this part for a long time. It is a full reproduction in size
all the way around.
weld bead is done by scribing the hood side and then laying in stretched sprue. It is very
difficult to see, but just aft of the top of the door are the three drains. I made these using
Plastruct 0.010" dia. styrene rod. Make note of the cab sun shade. Not that it is there or that it
is a Details Associates part, but that it is a full cab sunshade. The other side has a much
smaller sunshade. I do not know why Chessie bothered with the smaller sunshade on the other
side. It does not appear to be able to shade anything. But I model what I see in photos and
that is the configuration I saw. Here you can also see the use of the Railflyer GP jacking pads
and a Cannon & Co. truck light.
On a side note, I really commend Chris for producing these GP jacking pads. They are very
nicely done and we have been needing this part for a long time. It is a full reproduction in size
all the way around.
As I just mentioned, this side uses a smaller sunshade. What I did was just cut a Details
Associates sunshade down in size. Once again you can see the clean air room / electrical
cabinet weld seam and also the hole for locating the ECAB. I learned a hard lesson about the
ECAFB when I built my EJ&E GP38-2. That lesson is, DO NOT GLUE THE ECAFB IN PLACE
PRIOR TO PAINT. It makes painting behind it VERY difficult.
Associates sunshade down in size. Once again you can see the clean air room / electrical
cabinet weld seam and also the hole for locating the ECAB. I learned a hard lesson about the
ECAFB when I built my EJ&E GP38-2. That lesson is, DO NOT GLUE THE ECAFB IN PLACE
PRIOR TO PAINT. It makes painting behind it VERY difficult.
The antenna on the roof is a Details Associates whip antenna. I am not going to bother putting
a wire in it. The diameter of those wires in HO scale would be so small that you would never
see it. You can barely see it in closeup photos of the prototype. Again, you can see the
continuation of the weld seam over the clean air room.
On all prototype inertial filter hatches and exhaust hatches, the lift rings are smaller than the
rings used on the dynamic brake hatch and radiator hatch. I searched and could nto find
smaller diameter rings. I also looked into using N-Scale lift rings, but they were just to small. I
ended up using the same Detail Associates brass lift rings. Another small compromise.
Hopefully soon we will see a new range of lift rings from Plano Model Products.
a wire in it. The diameter of those wires in HO scale would be so small that you would never
see it. You can barely see it in closeup photos of the prototype. Again, you can see the
continuation of the weld seam over the clean air room.
On all prototype inertial filter hatches and exhaust hatches, the lift rings are smaller than the
rings used on the dynamic brake hatch and radiator hatch. I searched and could nto find
smaller diameter rings. I also looked into using N-Scale lift rings, but they were just to small. I
ended up using the same Detail Associates brass lift rings. Another small compromise.
Hopefully soon we will see a new range of lift rings from Plano Model Products.
Do not be alarmed by the bowed look of the radiator grills. What you see is a camera optical
illusion. I have no idea what causes that, but whenever I do a side shot of something, I get this
bow.
This photo was taken to show off another excellent product from Railflyer Model Prototypes.
One that I take credit for putting into his suggestion box. Thanks Chris for producing it. It is a
fine part and definitely one that is needed for those of us that build our own hoods. Also if you
look real close at it, the center light hole is etched all the way through. This will allow you light
crazy folks to put yet another bulb behind something to enhance the realism of your model.
illusion. I have no idea what causes that, but whenever I do a side shot of something, I get this
bow.
This photo was taken to show off another excellent product from Railflyer Model Prototypes.
One that I take credit for putting into his suggestion box. Thanks Chris for producing it. It is a
fine part and definitely one that is needed for those of us that build our own hoods. Also if you
look real close at it, the center light hole is etched all the way through. This will allow you light
crazy folks to put yet another bulb behind something to enhance the realism of your model.
Moving on to the top of the hood I have added a few extra details to the DB hatch. I have
added the lap joints and a new Detail Associates T-vent. The Athearn T-vent has a small sink
hole in it and it is much easier to just add a new one than fiddle with filling the Athearn
provided one. Yet another fine product from Railflyer Model Prototypes that again I suggested,
but am not the owner of the suggestion. Notice the batten strip. This is an initial release batten
strip and it is slightly under size in length. Chris has since fixed this and if you order them,
make sure the part number starts with a 6. As long as the part number starts with a 6, you are
getting the corrected part. BTW, I got the suggestion about having batten strips photo etched
many years ago from Brian Rutherford.
added the lap joints and a new Detail Associates T-vent. The Athearn T-vent has a small sink
hole in it and it is much easier to just add a new one than fiddle with filling the Athearn
provided one. Yet another fine product from Railflyer Model Prototypes that again I suggested,
but am not the owner of the suggestion. Notice the batten strip. This is an initial release batten
strip and it is slightly under size in length. Chris has since fixed this and if you order them,
make sure the part number starts with a 6. As long as the part number starts with a 6, you are
getting the corrected part. BTW, I got the suggestion about having batten strips photo etched
many years ago from Brian Rutherford.
I am very happy with the rebuild of my bell. The bell itself is a standard Kato bell. The bracket
is from Details West with the bell cut off and I also cut the air line wire off and built my own
from annealed 0.008" brass wire. Here you can also see what I was talking about the batten
strips being a tad short. Again, I want to reiterate they have been fixed.
is from Details West with the bell cut off and I also cut the air line wire off and built my own
from annealed 0.008" brass wire. Here you can also see what I was talking about the batten
strips being a tad short. Again, I want to reiterate they have been fixed.
The fan hatch is the new revised hatch from Plano Model Products with the fan holes etched
to fit the Cannon & Co. fans perfectly. To Attach the hatch I used a mixture of Barge contact
cement and MEK mixed 50/50. I scuffed up the entire bottom of the brass hatch with sand
paper. I then painted the Barge cement/MEK mixture onto the bottom of the hatch and also
onto the top of the hood. This mixture was told to me by Gordon Cannon. The MEK thins the
Barge cement so it is not so thick and bulky to use. To make sure I painted ONLY the top of
the hood where the fan hatch will sit, I first traced out the fan hatch on the hood. The fan grab
is made from bending 0.015" brass wire. On my next models though I will use the fan grab
made by Cal-Scale. Also on this model I have used the Cal-Scale drop grab irons. On
subsequent model sI will use the BLMA grab irons.
Also note in the lower portion of the photo I used the Details West flag holders. I am so happy
DW decided to produce these things. They were a MUCH needed item for hood building. One
of those small details that has a big impact.
to fit the Cannon & Co. fans perfectly. To Attach the hatch I used a mixture of Barge contact
cement and MEK mixed 50/50. I scuffed up the entire bottom of the brass hatch with sand
paper. I then painted the Barge cement/MEK mixture onto the bottom of the hatch and also
onto the top of the hood. This mixture was told to me by Gordon Cannon. The MEK thins the
Barge cement so it is not so thick and bulky to use. To make sure I painted ONLY the top of
the hood where the fan hatch will sit, I first traced out the fan hatch on the hood. The fan grab
is made from bending 0.015" brass wire. On my next models though I will use the fan grab
made by Cal-Scale. Also on this model I have used the Cal-Scale drop grab irons. On
subsequent model sI will use the BLMA grab irons.
Also note in the lower portion of the photo I used the Details West flag holders. I am so happy
DW decided to produce these things. They were a MUCH needed item for hood building. One
of those small details that has a big impact.
What you are looking at here is the back of a Cannon & Co. number board. WHY? Well there
is an issue with building Cannon & Co. cabs. It does not happen all the time and in fact out of
the four or five cabs I have built so far, this is the first time I have come across it. The issue
was brought to my attention a while back by Andy Harman. I think we dubbed it the "Number
Board Droop". It has been said in order to fix this, you need to make sure you build the cabs
square and remove the draft angle off the walls prior to construction. See my article on
BUILDING A CANNON & CO. THIN WALL CAB KIT. The cab for this model was built as square
as I possibly could and in fact I built it so perfectly square that the cab roof fit on WITHOUT
any gaps and fit snuggly down which you will see on the next page. To make a long story
short, this cab decided to produce the dreaded DROOP. I figured out how to fix it. It only
reqiures a sheet of 0.005" styrene glued to the bottom and about 3/4 the way up the sides as
you can see in the photo above. After the glue dries, I trimmed out the styrene and feathered
the upper legs of it to blend into the number board. That is all it took and now the number
board sits square to the cab face.
The horn is from Details West, but I did not use the horn you see in the photo. A fellow
modeler Jeffrey Sessa set me straight on what would be the proper horn. He gave me a fairly
detailed run down on the horn details and usage and suggested that the Atlas horn was
actually correct for this unit and was not a bad rendition. So I used the Atlas horn and I have
to agree with Jeffrey, it looks more correct. I added a block of styrene behind the light housing
so I have a nice solid block to drill through to mount the head lights. The rear light is done the
same. The light housing on the front is a Detail Associates part.
is an issue with building Cannon & Co. cabs. It does not happen all the time and in fact out of
the four or five cabs I have built so far, this is the first time I have come across it. The issue
was brought to my attention a while back by Andy Harman. I think we dubbed it the "Number
Board Droop". It has been said in order to fix this, you need to make sure you build the cabs
square and remove the draft angle off the walls prior to construction. See my article on
BUILDING A CANNON & CO. THIN WALL CAB KIT. The cab for this model was built as square
as I possibly could and in fact I built it so perfectly square that the cab roof fit on WITHOUT
any gaps and fit snuggly down which you will see on the next page. To make a long story
short, this cab decided to produce the dreaded DROOP. I figured out how to fix it. It only
reqiures a sheet of 0.005" styrene glued to the bottom and about 3/4 the way up the sides as
you can see in the photo above. After the glue dries, I trimmed out the styrene and feathered
the upper legs of it to blend into the number board. That is all it took and now the number
board sits square to the cab face.
The horn is from Details West, but I did not use the horn you see in the photo. A fellow
modeler Jeffrey Sessa set me straight on what would be the proper horn. He gave me a fairly
detailed run down on the horn details and usage and suggested that the Atlas horn was
actually correct for this unit and was not a bad rendition. So I used the Atlas horn and I have
to agree with Jeffrey, it looks more correct. I added a block of styrene behind the light housing
so I have a nice solid block to drill through to mount the head lights. The rear light is done the
same. The light housing on the front is a Detail Associates part.