BNSF GP40M 3018, Page 13
After shooting the clear flat, I then mixed up some more brown and applied another wash. This time because of
the flat finish, the wash soaked in. The flat coat gives the surface tooth for the wash to settle in. Now I have it in
the tight spaces and on the surface. I do not let it sit to long before I use my artist eraser and remove most of
what was applied. The idea here is to lighten the black and add the look of built up over time dirt.
the flat finish, the wash soaked in. The flat coat gives the surface tooth for the wash to settle in. Now I have it in
the tight spaces and on the surface. I do not let it sit to long before I use my artist eraser and remove most of
what was applied. The idea here is to lighten the black and add the look of built up over time dirt.
A back view of the tank during the same process.
Here I have the finished trucks, frame and fuel tank. I have added a few more washes of various colors. I also
used the dry brushing technique. I used some browns, blacks and grays to give the fuel tank a heavily
weathered look. I then topped it of with some pigments. I set the pigments with Turpenoid.
I have basically followed the same procedure for the sill, cab and hood. Over the clear coat I have applied a few
washes of brown. Only enough till I was satisfied with how it looked. I then applied a clear flat. I let the flat finish
dry for two days and then applied some more brown wash. I let the wash set for a day to dry and then went over
the model with some dry brush techniques. I used a lighter brown and built up the areas above the trucks and
the pilot faces. I did a lighter dry brush on the hood sides and roof. I let the dry brushing dry over night and the
final touch was to add some discoloration streaks. I did this by mixing up some light green and letting the oil
absorb out of the paint for about 1/2 hour. Then using a tooth pick I placed some dots of it over the green
areas on the hood. I let the dots sit on the hood for a few minutes and then dipped a broad soft brush in clean
Turpenoid and squeezed as much of the Turpenoid out as I could so the brush was barely damp and with
downward strokes, I brushed the dots out till they were just barely visible. Once the Turpenoid dried, you can
see a slight discoloration. I also used Payne's gray and put some dots in some strategic location on the black
area where dirt and oils might collect and pulled then down over the green.
used the dry brushing technique. I used some browns, blacks and grays to give the fuel tank a heavily
weathered look. I then topped it of with some pigments. I set the pigments with Turpenoid.
I have basically followed the same procedure for the sill, cab and hood. Over the clear coat I have applied a few
washes of brown. Only enough till I was satisfied with how it looked. I then applied a clear flat. I let the flat finish
dry for two days and then applied some more brown wash. I let the wash set for a day to dry and then went over
the model with some dry brush techniques. I used a lighter brown and built up the areas above the trucks and
the pilot faces. I did a lighter dry brush on the hood sides and roof. I let the dry brushing dry over night and the
final touch was to add some discoloration streaks. I did this by mixing up some light green and letting the oil
absorb out of the paint for about 1/2 hour. Then using a tooth pick I placed some dots of it over the green
areas on the hood. I let the dots sit on the hood for a few minutes and then dipped a broad soft brush in clean
Turpenoid and squeezed as much of the Turpenoid out as I could so the brush was barely damp and with
downward strokes, I brushed the dots out till they were just barely visible. Once the Turpenoid dried, you can
see a slight discoloration. I also used Payne's gray and put some dots in some strategic location on the black
area where dirt and oils might collect and pulled then down over the green.
The model is pretty much done in this photo. I only need to add the MV lenses for the ditch lights. I also need to
do something about that gap between the battery boxes and the cab. No matter how much a push it together,
the cab will not sit down flat on the boxes. I may have to glue it down.
do something about that gap between the battery boxes and the cab. No matter how much a push it together,
the cab will not sit down flat on the boxes. I may have to glue it down.
The chipped and worn paint on the end rails was done with small dabs of Testors gun metal and then
weathering was applied over it. The black on the roof was lightened by scrubbing in some MIG Production
pigments. The exhaust blackening was done lightly by scrubbing in pigments as well.
weathering was applied over it. The black on the roof was lightened by scrubbing in some MIG Production
pigments. The exhaust blackening was done lightly by scrubbing in pigments as well.
After weathering, the painted out doors showed up batter as did the access panel on the clean air room. The
rear end rails got a lighter application of chipping.
rear end rails got a lighter application of chipping.
The final weathering step was to load the airbrush up with a mixture of about 95% thinner to 5% Testors raw
Sienna and dusting the bottom sides of the fuel tank, fuel tank ends, trucks and areas just above the trucks to
simulate a dusty effect. It is an effect that does not show up well in photographs because it is very subtle.
All I have left to do is install the MV lenses in the ditch lights up front.
Sienna and dusting the bottom sides of the fuel tank, fuel tank ends, trucks and areas just above the trucks to
simulate a dusty effect. It is an effect that does not show up well in photographs because it is very subtle.
All I have left to do is install the MV lenses in the ditch lights up front.