BNSF GP40M 3018, Page 10
Withteh primary paint job done I now need to go and do all the fine detail paint. Here I have teh cab window
frame painted. I used Floquil old aluminum. I masked the window with metal foil. The great thing about the metal
foil is it can be burnished tightly into corners and crevices and then be cut with light pressure on the blade. The
edges come off very sharp so I get a very good masking job from it. Key to getting this very sharp edge is to
use a VERY sharp blade. An old blade will tear at the edges and give a raged edge mask. While cutting the foil,
the blade will slightly lift the edge so after cutting the foil, I then burnish the edge down again.
I did the same thing with masking the lower portion of the gasket on the rear cab windows.. The front windows
will get a decal application. The cab interior will also get a coat of paint to cover the over sparay.
Here is a good example of how to use the foil. The right number board opening has the foil burnished around
the gasket. The left has the gasket exposed and the hood masked. Here I used the tip of the blade and just
outlined the gasket.
I set the exposer so the picture would be brighter in order to see the crispness of the mask. Now I can add the
grab irons over the green paint. I also masked and painted the walkway lights. This was done to the nose as
well.
The next two photos are the model roughly put together with its clear coat. I use Future Floor Finish for my
clear coat. It spays on great through an air brush and gives a fantastic gloss finish to apply decals over. I found
the key to its application is to not try and cover in one coat. I apply a light coat just to give a tacky surface and
then I apply another and then another until I build up enough so when I spray it on it will not run. To much at
once and you will have a noticeable buildup that will run. Once I got the tacky surface buildup, I just sprayed it
on in a circular motion. This stuff also makes you paint bullet proof. The model is now ready for decals.