BNSF GP40M 3018, Page 9
Now I need to get serious about getting this model painted and finished so I can move onto other projects I
have planned.
have planned.
Here you can see that I have the green painted and masked. It is masked with Testors metal foil and now ready
to get a coat of black.
to get a coat of black.
I explained earlier how I do not like to brush paint my hand rails. The paint globs to much and always looks to
thick. I also explained how I mask them with artist masking fluid. Here you see how I remove the masking.
Basically starting at the top, I slide my fingers across where the masking starts at the first stanchion. This
usually breaks the bond tot eh handrails and starts the masking to roll up just like if you were to roll down tube
socks. Then I remove the metal foil masking from the bottom and roll the masking up the same way as I do from
the top. Once the masking is all rolled up. I use PBL nippers and cut it off. Usually I do not have to use metal
foil to mask the bottom of the hand rails, but this was a special case. Normally I can just roll the masking all the
way to the bottom and off the end.
thick. I also explained how I mask them with artist masking fluid. Here you see how I remove the masking.
Basically starting at the top, I slide my fingers across where the masking starts at the first stanchion. This
usually breaks the bond tot eh handrails and starts the masking to roll up just like if you were to roll down tube
socks. Then I remove the metal foil masking from the bottom and roll the masking up the same way as I do from
the top. Once the masking is all rolled up. I use PBL nippers and cut it off. Usually I do not have to use metal
foil to mask the bottom of the hand rails, but this was a special case. Normally I can just roll the masking all the
way to the bottom and off the end.
This is what the handrails look like after painting.
The next two photos are of the sill unit after all the masking is peeled off.
The next two photos are of the sill unit after all the masking is peeled off.
You know how I mentioned how wonderful metal foil is to use as a masking material. Well, it really is. I failed to
mention that this was my first HO model I used it on. I had always used it on N-Scale models before with
fantastic results. Now I still get the fantastic results on HO models, but I found that though it is VERY easy to
install, it is a royal pain to remove so much of it. I did not have to remove so much of it in N-Scale. I will still use it
as a masking material for small things like step edges and such, but I will use my other two preferred masking
material for larger areas. Those two being the 3M blue masking tape and also Tamiya masking tape. Tamiya
makes some wonderful masking tape. The hood and cab will be done with either one of those two.
mention that this was my first HO model I used it on. I had always used it on N-Scale models before with
fantastic results. Now I still get the fantastic results on HO models, but I found that though it is VERY easy to
install, it is a royal pain to remove so much of it. I did not have to remove so much of it in N-Scale. I will still use it
as a masking material for small things like step edges and such, but I will use my other two preferred masking
material for larger areas. Those two being the 3M blue masking tape and also Tamiya masking tape. Tamiya
makes some wonderful masking tape. The hood and cab will be done with either one of those two.
With the long hood painted green I need to mask for the black. I was at a loss for the moment on how to make
a perfectly straight mask. When I was modeling in N-Scale I used to set my calipers to the correct width, set one
jaw at the bottom of the shell and drag the other across the paint to create a faint line. I would use that to mask
against. My eyes are not nearly what they used to be and that method did not work well on this model.
Time to come up with a new plan. One that would allow me to see the reference line. So using the same
concept with the calipers, I set the width. I then set one jaw along the bottom of the shell and I used the steel
rule as you see in the photo and rest it up against the other jaw. I taped one end down and then fixed the other
end. I checked the height of the steel rule all along the shell and made sure it was perfect all teh way down.
a perfectly straight mask. When I was modeling in N-Scale I used to set my calipers to the correct width, set one
jaw at the bottom of the shell and drag the other across the paint to create a faint line. I would use that to mask
against. My eyes are not nearly what they used to be and that method did not work well on this model.
Time to come up with a new plan. One that would allow me to see the reference line. So using the same
concept with the calipers, I set the width. I then set one jaw along the bottom of the shell and I used the steel
rule as you see in the photo and rest it up against the other jaw. I taped one end down and then fixed the other
end. I checked the height of the steel rule all along the shell and made sure it was perfect all teh way down.
Using a 0.3mm pencil, I pulled the lead out about 1/8" and rolled it on a piece of card stock to put a point on it.
Then using the weight of the pencil, I drew a line down the shell as you can see in the photo above. I did this on
both sides. Now I have a reference line to mask against. The masking will be done just under the line with the
tape just barely touching the bottom of the line.
Then using the weight of the pencil, I drew a line down the shell as you can see in the photo above. I did this on
both sides. Now I have a reference line to mask against. The masking will be done just under the line with the
tape just barely touching the bottom of the line.
Nothing special here, just showing the shell and cab all taped up and ready for paint. The yellow tape is Tamiya
6mm masking tape. The Blue tape is 3M Blue masking tape. I am going to have to praise Tamiya again. They
have made yet another fantastic product. Their masking tape is so wonderful to use. It burnishes down so
nicely and has just the right amount of tackiness. It all burnishes nicely into the small crevices between the
doors.
6mm masking tape. The Blue tape is 3M Blue masking tape. I am going to have to praise Tamiya again. They
have made yet another fantastic product. Their masking tape is so wonderful to use. It burnishes down so
nicely and has just the right amount of tackiness. It all burnishes nicely into the small crevices between the
doors.
To make the masking line for the black on top of the nose, I made a new tool. It is simply a Cannon & Co. nose
piece. The top of the nose. I cut the rolled edge off, then drilled out where the sanding hatch is and the grab
irons. I cleaned the underside off so it will sit flat on the nose of the model. After positioning it, I then drew a thin
line around to tape up to. It took me about 10 minutes to make this.
piece. The top of the nose. I cut the rolled edge off, then drilled out where the sanding hatch is and the grab
irons. I cleaned the underside off so it will sit flat on the nose of the model. After positioning it, I then drew a thin
line around to tape up to. It took me about 10 minutes to make this.
Here is the hood and cab with all the masking removed. You will notice some green color variation. This was
done prior to masking and the application of black. The rear doors on both sides are painted with a mix of BN
green and MKT green. Same goes for the side of the cab where the BNSF numbers will go. My take on the rear
doors being painted green was because that is where BN had the road numbers. The cab side was painted
green because that was where the words BURLINGTON NORTHERN were. Also if you will look closely, you can
see the bolted on cover plate on the clean air room is painted a lighter green. I noticed this in the prototype
photo on the cover page as well.
The primary paint job is done. Now it is time to add the clear coat and apply the decals.
done prior to masking and the application of black. The rear doors on both sides are painted with a mix of BN
green and MKT green. Same goes for the side of the cab where the BNSF numbers will go. My take on the rear
doors being painted green was because that is where BN had the road numbers. The cab side was painted
green because that was where the words BURLINGTON NORTHERN were. Also if you will look closely, you can
see the bolted on cover plate on the clean air room is painted a lighter green. I noticed this in the prototype
photo on the cover page as well.
The primary paint job is done. Now it is time to add the clear coat and apply the decals.