BNSF GP40M 3018, Page 6
Now it is time to get started on detailing the hood. The basic Cannon & Co. parts will be used along with a few
Details West and Details Associates. First though I need to remove the details that will be replaced.
Details West and Details Associates. First though I need to remove the details that will be replaced.
Starting with the radiator grills. The bit you see in the photo I refer to as my "Super Gouging Bit". I purchased
the set from Micro Mark. It is a dove tail bit and it removes plastic REALLY fast! A lot of care needs to be taken
when using this bit because it will jump. Both the shell and the tool needs to be held firmly in hand and run the
shell at least half way up the bit so you do not chance catching the tip and have it run down the side of your
shell. Once you have good control over it, it is a great tool to use and makes quick work of removing the
radiators. I removed just the radiator grill and not the frame. It is OK if you go a little into the frame, but try not
to. As you can see, I did a little.
the set from Micro Mark. It is a dove tail bit and it removes plastic REALLY fast! A lot of care needs to be taken
when using this bit because it will jump. Both the shell and the tool needs to be held firmly in hand and run the
shell at least half way up the bit so you do not chance catching the tip and have it run down the side of your
shell. Once you have good control over it, it is a great tool to use and makes quick work of removing the
radiators. I removed just the radiator grill and not the frame. It is OK if you go a little into the frame, but try not
to. As you can see, I did a little.
Then I cleaned up and straightened the inside edge along the frame. I then cut and scraped the frame detail
off flat to the hood side. It is to risky to try and do this over the doors so here I simple cut the frame and hood
side down to exactly the top of the doors. I then test fit the Cannon & Co. RG-1404 RADIATOR GRILLES &
SHUTTERS to make sure they fit properly.
off flat to the hood side. It is to risky to try and do this over the doors so here I simple cut the frame and hood
side down to exactly the top of the doors. I then test fit the Cannon & Co. RG-1404 RADIATOR GRILLES &
SHUTTERS to make sure they fit properly.
To give the bottom edge of the radiator grill detail part a shoulder to sit on, I laminated 0.010" x 0.040" and
0.015" x 0.040" styrene strip above the door area. Test fit the grills again to make sure they run parallel to the
top door edge and then glue the grill in place. You will notice here that I also scraped off the flag holder. It was
easier to just cut it off than try to cut, scrap and sand around it. Thanks to Details West I can add it back later.
0.015" x 0.040" styrene strip above the door area. Test fit the grills again to make sure they run parallel to the
top door edge and then glue the grill in place. You will notice here that I also scraped off the flag holder. It was
easier to just cut it off than try to cut, scrap and sand around it. Thanks to Details West I can add it back later.
Now I need to modify the hood to put the Cannon & Co. FH-1353 INERTIAL FILTER HATCHES. It is just way to
much work sanding and filing this detail off the shell, so I simply cut it out as shown in the photo. Prior to cutting
out the inertial filter hatch, measure the width of the hood. I measured it to be 0.834" wide. The hood walls are
0.040" each so that means I need to cut a roof piece that is 0.754" wide. It is very important that the top inside
edges are cut straight and not tapered.
much work sanding and filing this detail off the shell, so I simply cut it out as shown in the photo. Prior to cutting
out the inertial filter hatch, measure the width of the hood. I measured it to be 0.834" wide. The hood walls are
0.040" each so that means I need to cut a roof piece that is 0.754" wide. It is very important that the top inside
edges are cut straight and not tapered.
After cutting the inertial filter hatch off and making sure my edges are straight, I then cleaned off the rest of the
detail on the top edge. I will be using a piece of 0.040" sheet to fill the roof section back in so on the front edge
I measured down 0.040" and trimmed it out. What you see above is now ready for the roof piece.
detail on the top edge. I will be using a piece of 0.040" sheet to fill the roof section back in so on the front edge
I measured down 0.040" and trimmed it out. What you see above is now ready for the roof piece.
As you can see above, my roof piece has an overhang on the front edge. I cut my roof piece slightly longer
than I needed and when I installed it, I lined up the back edge. The front edge will get trimmed after the glue
has set and dried. Also, what you do not see in on the inside edge (inside the shell), I have a shelf that the roof
piece sits on. To install the roof piece so it is squared with the hood sides and at exactly the same height, I flip
the shell upside down on a flat surface, lay in the roof piece and glue it in place. I press down on the hood and
the roof piece so the top edges are even. I then added the shelf pieces tot eh inside for support.
Also in this photo you see that I have laminated two thin strips of 0.05" styrene sheet. This is to make sure the
seam is filled. Once the glue has set hard, I will cut and sand the roof section flat and even.
than I needed and when I installed it, I lined up the back edge. The front edge will get trimmed after the glue
has set and dried. Also, what you do not see in on the inside edge (inside the shell), I have a shelf that the roof
piece sits on. To install the roof piece so it is squared with the hood sides and at exactly the same height, I flip
the shell upside down on a flat surface, lay in the roof piece and glue it in place. I press down on the hood and
the roof piece so the top edges are even. I then added the shelf pieces tot eh inside for support.
Also in this photo you see that I have laminated two thin strips of 0.05" styrene sheet. This is to make sure the
seam is filled. Once the glue has set hard, I will cut and sand the roof section flat and even.
With the new roof piece installed, squared up and sanded I then located where I needed to drill glue holes for
the new inertial filter hatch.
the new inertial filter hatch.
Here is the hood completed. I have the inertial filter hatch in place, the exhaust hatch Cannon & Co. TH-1952
EMD TURBO HATCH, the radiator grills and all the fan bases and fan shrouds Cannon & Co. DF-1852
'THINWALL' EMD DYNAMIC FANS and Cannon & Co. RF-1704 'THINWALL' EMD RADIATOR FANS. The
method I used for removing the cast on exhaust hatch is to chuck my "Super Gouging Bit" into my drill press
and lower it till it just barely clears the top of the dynamic brake hatch (not installed on the hood yet). First I
clean off as much of the exhaust stack as possible with Zuron nippers and a #11 blade so all I have left is the
flat hatch. Running the drill press at high speed, by hand I slowly move the hatch into the bit and clean off the
exhaust hatch. There is about 0.005" or less of the hatch left on there and I just scrape that off.
The lift rings are of two varieties. The rings that are on the radiator section and dynamic brake hatch are
Detail Associates 101101 LIFT RING - 3 1/2" EYE BOLT, BRASS. The lift rings that are on the inertial filter
hatch and exhaust hatch are small rings from Highliners #2002 FAN GRILLES & DETAIL PARTS. I wanted the
different sizes.
EMD TURBO HATCH, the radiator grills and all the fan bases and fan shrouds Cannon & Co. DF-1852
'THINWALL' EMD DYNAMIC FANS and Cannon & Co. RF-1704 'THINWALL' EMD RADIATOR FANS. The
method I used for removing the cast on exhaust hatch is to chuck my "Super Gouging Bit" into my drill press
and lower it till it just barely clears the top of the dynamic brake hatch (not installed on the hood yet). First I
clean off as much of the exhaust stack as possible with Zuron nippers and a #11 blade so all I have left is the
flat hatch. Running the drill press at high speed, by hand I slowly move the hatch into the bit and clean off the
exhaust hatch. There is about 0.005" or less of the hatch left on there and I just scrape that off.
The lift rings are of two varieties. The rings that are on the radiator section and dynamic brake hatch are
Detail Associates 101101 LIFT RING - 3 1/2" EYE BOLT, BRASS. The lift rings that are on the inertial filter
hatch and exhaust hatch are small rings from Highliners #2002 FAN GRILLES & DETAIL PARTS. I wanted the
different sizes.
The sand hatch is from Cannon & Co. HN-1103 EMD 81" LOW SHORT HOOD KIT. These are spare parts in
the kit and since a have a boat load of them, I have this chance to use one. You will also see one on the nose.
The fan grab is 0.010" brass wire. It sets up approximately 7" (0.080") off the fan hatch. That is what I measured
on a couple of EMD hood units. My standard a piece of 0.080" x 0.080" styrene as a gauge and push the hand
grab down to it and then glue from under the hood.
At the bottom of the photo you can see the hood side lift ring which is the same from DA 101101. Also you can
see the new flag holder. This is Details West FH-323 FLAG HOLDER BRACKETS ALL F-UNITS.
the kit and since a have a boat load of them, I have this chance to use one. You will also see one on the nose.
The fan grab is 0.010" brass wire. It sets up approximately 7" (0.080") off the fan hatch. That is what I measured
on a couple of EMD hood units. My standard a piece of 0.080" x 0.080" styrene as a gauge and push the hand
grab down to it and then glue from under the hood.
At the bottom of the photo you can see the hood side lift ring which is the same from DA 101101. Also you can
see the new flag holder. This is Details West FH-323 FLAG HOLDER BRACKETS ALL F-UNITS.
Here I have the horn and bracket. I did not have any good closeup photos showing me exactly what horn to
use, but this one looked to be right. I tried DW part AH-326, but it sat way to low on the bracket. The bells bell
inside the fan shroud. I then chose Details West AH-190 "LESLIE" RSL-3L-R THREE CHIME. The horn stand
is Details West HS-329 HORN STAND, TALL ALL ROADS. With the horn stand, I cut the air line out of the
middle so I could route a piece of brass wire into it This horn stand is very robust and glued in very strongly. I
trimmed the horn pin down and drilled it out for the brass wire. I was able to get the horn squared up on the
stand on my first attempt at attaching it. The bond is very strong.
use, but this one looked to be right. I tried DW part AH-326, but it sat way to low on the bracket. The bells bell
inside the fan shroud. I then chose Details West AH-190 "LESLIE" RSL-3L-R THREE CHIME. The horn stand
is Details West HS-329 HORN STAND, TALL ALL ROADS. With the horn stand, I cut the air line out of the
middle so I could route a piece of brass wire into it This horn stand is very robust and glued in very strongly. I
trimmed the horn pin down and drilled it out for the brass wire. I was able to get the horn squared up on the
stand on my first attempt at attaching it. The bond is very strong.
With the top view photo I have seen of this unit, I could just barely see the air line routing. I used a piece of
0.010" brass wire to represent the air line. Bent it to shape and installed it.
0.010" brass wire to represent the air line. Bent it to shape and installed it.