MODELING BNSF GP40M 3018, Page 2
At first I was going to use the far superior looking Athearn Blomberg side frames. Then I got to thinking. Why not just
see what I can do with the Atlas side frames. This is a club runner so I want to keep the construction as simple and
quick as possible.
see what I can do with the Atlas side frames. This is a club runner so I want to keep the construction as simple and
quick as possible.
The view you see above is exactly how the side frame comes from Atlas. First off you should notice the curvature in
the brake line piping. That is just not right and fortunately very easy to fix. Next thing you should notice is molded in
sanding hoses. I ma not going to do a side by side comparison to the Athearn side frames. We all know they are and
should be the industry standard. At least for now until someone decides to really go nuts and produce a better side
frame. But in short, the Atlas side frames are weak and lifeless. Sub-standard in my opinion. But for this model, I think
I can bring them alive and make them respectable. The #1 draw back for me with them is they are made from Delrin.
No side frame should EVER be made from Delrin. There is absolutely no need for a side frame to be made from
Delrin!
the brake line piping. That is just not right and fortunately very easy to fix. Next thing you should notice is molded in
sanding hoses. I ma not going to do a side by side comparison to the Athearn side frames. We all know they are and
should be the industry standard. At least for now until someone decides to really go nuts and produce a better side
frame. But in short, the Atlas side frames are weak and lifeless. Sub-standard in my opinion. But for this model, I think
I can bring them alive and make them respectable. The #1 draw back for me with them is they are made from Delrin.
No side frame should EVER be made from Delrin. There is absolutely no need for a side frame to be made from
Delrin!
I mentioned there was an easy fix for the curved brake cylinder air line. Basically remove it and turn it around so the
curved part is down. You can see int eh above photo how it straightens out the line. To remove the air line, you need
to remove one of the brake cylinders. The wire is snug inside the cylinder. Once you put is all back together, then tug
on the wire at each cylinder to straighten it all out and make sure it is centered.
Next detail is to add the Details West SB-330 LOCOMOTIVE SANDER BRACKETS, 4 AXLE AND 6 AXLE TRUCKS.
I did not want to just set them on top of the existing journal retainer brackets that are molded into the side frame. It
just would not look right. The detail part would add to much thickness to this already to thick molded on bracket.
curved part is down. You can see int eh above photo how it straightens out the line. To remove the air line, you need
to remove one of the brake cylinders. The wire is snug inside the cylinder. Once you put is all back together, then tug
on the wire at each cylinder to straighten it all out and make sure it is centered.
Next detail is to add the Details West SB-330 LOCOMOTIVE SANDER BRACKETS, 4 AXLE AND 6 AXLE TRUCKS.
I did not want to just set them on top of the existing journal retainer brackets that are molded into the side frame. It
just would not look right. The detail part would add to much thickness to this already to thick molded on bracket.
Looking at the photo above, you can see the notch I cut in the journal retainer bracket. In the photo you can see this
by a very dark area on the leading retainer bracket. This cut is made to the size of the Details West sanding bracket.
by a very dark area on the leading retainer bracket. This cut is made to the size of the Details West sanding bracket.
This photo shows a side frame that is almost finished. I only need to grit blast it. Another downfall of the Atlas side
frames other than the fact they are made from Delrin is that they are VERY shiny. They look terrible with this shine.
Also the shine does not allow paint to stick to it very well.
Here you can see the Details West sanding brackets installed. I am telling you, I had a very difficult time getting the
sanding brackets glued to the side frames. I have no idea if Atlas uses a special anti detailing Delrin, but I could not
even get the magical Cyanopoxy to work. I finally used a brand of ACC I bought at Walgreens SUPERHOLD super
glue. Zap-A-Gap would not even work. The SUPERHOLD worked great and the parts are still in place. You can see a
few other detail parts used on this side frame. I have Details West SR-285 SPEED RECORDER, LATE ERA
LOCOMOTIVES. The installation of this detail part is very straight forward. Install on appropriate journal per
prototype. The cable is a piece of Miniatronics light bulb wire. The speed recorder was drilled and the wire was
ACCed in place. Another detail part is Details West SK-210 PILOT SPARE KNUCKLE HOLDER. This part is modified
to represent the knuckle holder on the prototype. The only detail part that I could find that looked like the prototype is
made by Overland Models and I did not feel like ordering and waiting for it to come in so I modified the Details West
part to represent the truck mounted spare knuckle holder.
frames other than the fact they are made from Delrin is that they are VERY shiny. They look terrible with this shine.
Also the shine does not allow paint to stick to it very well.
Here you can see the Details West sanding brackets installed. I am telling you, I had a very difficult time getting the
sanding brackets glued to the side frames. I have no idea if Atlas uses a special anti detailing Delrin, but I could not
even get the magical Cyanopoxy to work. I finally used a brand of ACC I bought at Walgreens SUPERHOLD super
glue. Zap-A-Gap would not even work. The SUPERHOLD worked great and the parts are still in place. You can see a
few other detail parts used on this side frame. I have Details West SR-285 SPEED RECORDER, LATE ERA
LOCOMOTIVES. The installation of this detail part is very straight forward. Install on appropriate journal per
prototype. The cable is a piece of Miniatronics light bulb wire. The speed recorder was drilled and the wire was
ACCed in place. Another detail part is Details West SK-210 PILOT SPARE KNUCKLE HOLDER. This part is modified
to represent the knuckle holder on the prototype. The only detail part that I could find that looked like the prototype is
made by Overland Models and I did not feel like ordering and waiting for it to come in so I modified the Details West
part to represent the truck mounted spare knuckle holder.
Photo courtesy Mike Roberts
Railway Service Contractors, Inc.
8500 E. 155th Street
Grandview, MO 64030
Railway Service Contractors, Inc.
8500 E. 155th Street
Grandview, MO 64030
Here is a photo of the knuckle holder I needed to make. My good friend Mike Roberts of Railway Service Contractors,
Inc. sent me this for a reference of what I needed to build. I used the Details West part and cut it to size. I then cut
some 0.010" styrene strip to size for the sides and drilled through for the knuckle pin. I'll add the knuckle and pin after
the side frame is painted and weathered. The sanding hose you see int eh side frame photo is also a piece of
Miniatronics light bulb wire. I cut the end off the Details West sanding nozzle (the end that attached to the hose) and I
drilled it out with a 0.011" drill bit. I stripped the wire and ACCed it into the nozzle. I then drilled a blind hole behind the
side frame and attached the other end of the hose.
Inc. sent me this for a reference of what I needed to build. I used the Details West part and cut it to size. I then cut
some 0.010" styrene strip to size for the sides and drilled through for the knuckle pin. I'll add the knuckle and pin after
the side frame is painted and weathered. The sanding hose you see int eh side frame photo is also a piece of
Miniatronics light bulb wire. I cut the end off the Details West sanding nozzle (the end that attached to the hose) and I
drilled it out with a 0.011" drill bit. I stripped the wire and ACCed it into the nozzle. I then drilled a blind hole behind the
side frame and attached the other end of the hose.
Here you can see the finished side frame prior to painting. I have grit blasted it. Also you will notice that the outboard
brake calipers have been removed per prototype photos. I reshaped and drilled the frame bracket that holds the
caliper on both ends of the frame. All the side frames are now done and ready for paint. By the way, on this prototype
the right rear side frame gets the same spare knuckle holder in the same location as the front right side frame you
see in the photo above. All side frames get the outboard calipers removed and the same treatment tot he attachment
points on the frame as you see above. Same is true for the sanding hose brackets. You will notice I removed the
nozzle portion of the sanding hose bracket on the inboard journal.
brake calipers have been removed per prototype photos. I reshaped and drilled the frame bracket that holds the
caliper on both ends of the frame. All the side frames are now done and ready for paint. By the way, on this prototype
the right rear side frame gets the same spare knuckle holder in the same location as the front right side frame you
see in the photo above. All side frames get the outboard calipers removed and the same treatment tot he attachment
points on the frame as you see above. Same is true for the sanding hose brackets. You will notice I removed the
nozzle portion of the sanding hose bracket on the inboard journal.