09/03/07
| MODELING BNSF GP40M 3018 |
There is no particular reason why I chose to model this locomotive. I had an extra Atlas GP40 and did not know
what to do with it. A friend sent me this photo from RailPictures.net and the more I looked at it, the more I
thought it would be a good case for a CLUB RUNNER modeling project. A club runner is just that. A model you
take to the club and run the wheels off. Something that is robust enough that when Joe Fat Fingers man
handles it, small parts will not rain down off your model. Personally I do not let anyone touch my models. Not
even in a club environment. Call me whatever you want, but nobody else knows the time and effort that you put
into building the model or how to handle it safely.
The only thing that I know historically about this locomotive is it started life as a GP40 on the CB&Q. So enough
with history lesson. Let me get started on building this model. My intent was not to go crazy milling the frame
and adding all sorts of detail under the deck. In fact I tried not using my mill at all, but because of the way the
frame is constructed, I had to make a couple recess cuts to get two detail parts to sit deeper under the side sill.
So as usual, I started with the frame. First order of business was to strip all the paint off. Atlas puts a nice coat
of paint on their frames, but I like to start with bare frames and paint them myself.
what to do with it. A friend sent me this photo from RailPictures.net and the more I looked at it, the more I
thought it would be a good case for a CLUB RUNNER modeling project. A club runner is just that. A model you
take to the club and run the wheels off. Something that is robust enough that when Joe Fat Fingers man
handles it, small parts will not rain down off your model. Personally I do not let anyone touch my models. Not
even in a club environment. Call me whatever you want, but nobody else knows the time and effort that you put
into building the model or how to handle it safely.
The only thing that I know historically about this locomotive is it started life as a GP40 on the CB&Q. So enough
with history lesson. Let me get started on building this model. My intent was not to go crazy milling the frame
and adding all sorts of detail under the deck. In fact I tried not using my mill at all, but because of the way the
frame is constructed, I had to make a couple recess cuts to get two detail parts to sit deeper under the side sill.
So as usual, I started with the frame. First order of business was to strip all the paint off. Atlas puts a nice coat
of paint on their frames, but I like to start with bare frames and paint them myself.
Kevin Piper photo. Used with permission
The first detail added is Details West BV-245, BRAKE VENT REGULATOR VALVE. This is a detail that is
common to all EMD 2nd generation locomotives. At least to all the ones I have studied. I have not seen it on 1st
generation units, but that may be because it is tucked well up under the side sill and not visible. The location of
this detail seems to be standard as well. It is located in two places. Up front on the left side just slightly aft of the
front axle and at the rear on the right side just forward of the rear axle. It is an easy part to see. Look for the
small canister hanging down below the side sill.
common to all EMD 2nd generation locomotives. At least to all the ones I have studied. I have not seen it on 1st
generation units, but that may be because it is tucked well up under the side sill and not visible. The location of
this detail seems to be standard as well. It is located in two places. Up front on the left side just slightly aft of the
front axle and at the rear on the right side just forward of the rear axle. It is an easy part to see. Look for the
small canister hanging down below the side sill.
In the photo above, you can see the brake vent regulator valve gleaming in the sun light just above the brake
cylinder. This is a view of the front left side of SP/UP GP38-2 #609.
cylinder. This is a view of the front left side of SP/UP GP38-2 #609.
Photo by Brian Banna
Photo by Brian Banna
Here is a view of the left rear. Same GP38-2. You can see the valve hanging down just above the brake
cylinder actuator.
cylinder actuator.
So this brings me to the second location of the brake vent regulator valve. I do not have any dimensions
indicated because I used prototype photos and located the valves on the frame per the photos. As you can see
int eh two model photos, I had to notch the frame to get the valves up under the frame more. The notch for both
the front and rear is 0.030" deep and 0.060" wide.
indicated because I used prototype photos and located the valves on the frame per the photos. As you can see
int eh two model photos, I had to notch the frame to get the valves up under the frame more. The notch for both
the front and rear is 0.030" deep and 0.060" wide.
The final bit of frame milling I had to do was to notch the frame where the air filters would be placed. For the air
filters, I used Details West AF-139 AIR FILTER SET. This package comes with a large and small filter. I
needed two large filters so had to purchase two packages. As you can see I modified their mounting bases.
One sits a little deeper under the sill than the other. The one that is further into the frame is used for the Air
reservoir. I had to think how I was going to plumb the lines that run from the air reservoirs to the filters and still
be able to remove the tank. Well, that is not possible. So as you will see later, the fuel tank is permanently
attached to the frame. I notched the top side of the frame by 0.030" deep to allow me to glue a 0.030" styrene
pad in place. This in tune gave me the necessary space to mount the air filters to the frame rather than the sill
unit. I still wanted to be able to remove the sill unit. I engineered all the detail that hangs under the deck to be
attached to either the fuel tank of the frame.
This is it for the frame modifications.
filters, I used Details West AF-139 AIR FILTER SET. This package comes with a large and small filter. I
needed two large filters so had to purchase two packages. As you can see I modified their mounting bases.
One sits a little deeper under the sill than the other. The one that is further into the frame is used for the Air
reservoir. I had to think how I was going to plumb the lines that run from the air reservoirs to the filters and still
be able to remove the tank. Well, that is not possible. So as you will see later, the fuel tank is permanently
attached to the frame. I notched the top side of the frame by 0.030" deep to allow me to glue a 0.030" styrene
pad in place. This in tune gave me the necessary space to mount the air filters to the frame rather than the sill
unit. I still wanted to be able to remove the sill unit. I engineered all the detail that hangs under the deck to be
attached to either the fuel tank of the frame.
This is it for the frame modifications.